Search results

From the component side of the circuit board, the signal comes in at the left and goes out on the right. Of course, I tend to overcomplicate things!

There may be a standard, but I’m not aware of it. I think I’ve always inserted the pieces based on signal flow, but I’m pretty sure I do it left to right on the breadboard. Unless there is a standard (which could have the benefit of easier understanding when posting questions with photos) I...

Yup! If I like a pedal enough, I make a template sheet for it, and it goes in my binder. I really like seeing what I liked at some prior point, etc., and with all the notes in one place, it’s easy to find. I keep journals about guitar maintenance and string preferences, and about amp...

I’ve had both Hakko and Pace elements just give up the ghost for no apparent reasons. Like @Robert just said though, the element and the tip exterior are two separate issues. Those little round tins of tip saver really work for badly treated tips.

I don’t use my Home Brew Electronics Three Hound Chorus on my board anymore, (it is a bit noisy, and really cuts highs quite a bit)—but it comes out when I want something really dreamy and thick. I’m very pleased with the Ceasar (which replaced it on my board). Much quieter, and while it just...

I know there are several far more tube amp experienced builders on this forum, and am trying to figure out "what went wrong." I'm using an Allen Encore, which is loosely based on a Vibrolux Reverb. (I built this from a kit about 4 years ago, and it's worked great, more than great!, since day...

This is one familiar brand. Probably a life time supply for a home shop… No odor, doesn’t get all over everything.

There are specific cutting fluids for aluminum. Over the years, I began to drift more towards cutting waxes, especially when tapping threads. Very easy to use, you just stab the cutting end into the tub, and it migrates less than most liquids. With aluminum, almost any lubricant will also work...

Germanium is really temp sensitive. Ideally, you should measure at whatever the “standard inside the effect box’es” temperature is. Not easy, especially if you play out. I always use tweezers to hold them while I attach the little testing clips on, which seems like a reasonable compromise...

Really lovely pedal design, and well executed!

Well, there’s “going south,” and there’s “circle jerk paranoia…”

Just lovely! Even the bottom!

Well, I’ve lost almost all of my hair, and can’t blame any treatments…

I can’t give you any useful rules, but if a circuit doesn’t have 100n bypass caps for each opamp, I tend to throw them on the backside, leaving the socket legs longer on those two pins. Typically, you want them as close as possible to the device.

I’ve missed your adventures in guitar modding! Glad you’ve got days with “better” hours in them—hopefully they continue to increase. Great Strat trio.

I’ve tried painting knobs in the past, using automotive (catalyzed) clear coats, and they still did not wear well, so I’m willing to compromise.

Part of my acquainting myself with a new guitar is figuring out strings for it. With few exceptions, the commonalities are “round wound,” nickel or Monel, and round core. At this point my lightest strung is my Strat, 11-48 set of Pyramid Monel Classics, but with a 10.5 first. My 290 gets John...

I’m guessing here, but pretty sure that JFB is just a manufacturer’s name. From the title descriptions, the caps seem to be interchangeable.

Perfect—Brett, thank you!

Before my order comes in, trying to do designs and not sure of diameter—does anyone have any of these, that can give me a measurement?