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I’d pay good money to watch some brave soul try to whittle a diode leg! Pretty sure you can make a tourniquet out of 24awg…. ;)

You could probably gently ream out the hole a little bit without taking all of the plating off. I use an x-acto knife or one leg of some pointy tweezers for tasks like this.

Except in this case, if you read up on Sakevi Yokoyama (the singer), you realize that there’s a better than average chance he’s an actual demon 😈

I think “slew rate” is the general term for how quickly (or not) an electrical thingie (or “chingalera” to use the technical term ;) ) changes state. Not sure if there’s another more LDR-specific term…🤷‍♀️

Is the volume any different depending where the Tone switch is set? Because it looks like one position of the toggle would be bypassing the whole section where your circles are.

Nice work! We only get American Goldfinch in the winter here in Texas when they’re mostly in their drabber plumage. So Lessers are actually our fancier Goldfinch most of the time;) Where do you get yellow Sovtek-style knobs?

This is the Ace Tone FM-2, right? Which is a re-badged Superfuzz, or are there some differences? 🤔

I too found that ever since I started taking a keen interest in sockets, ICs, and audio electronics in general, I also began attracting the opposite of sex!

=

The good news is that Coke sockets and Pepsi sockets are both readily available for reasonable prices. So people can use whichever ones they like for whatever reasons they like. Said reasons being rigorous scientific testing, random anecdotal confirmation bias, or any combination thereof ;) 🤘

Yeah, just bend the legs square to the body and pop ‘em in. I’ve never had any problems 🤷‍♀️ I have however, when trying to pull a stubborn IC out of a socket, had the IC suddenly pop out, somehow flip around, and embed itself in my thumb to the point of drawing blood. 🩸 This has happened on...

You can’t go wrong with some well-placed Eurostile.

I have two big Akro Mils cabinets mounted on the wall inside a closet. If I need more than one thing, or if I need to sort through something, I just pull the drawer out and bring it to my work table. Also, for labeling the drawers, I put a piece of clear packing tape on the front then write on...

Or should it be like this? Because you’re trying to slew limit (slowly ramp) the voltage that is now going to the Pot Path when you open the Momentary Path… 🤔

Should one side of the capacitor go to ground? Like so: It looks like the Dwell pot/Momentary switch are controlling a 3.3V CV (Control Voltage) going to Pin 20: Analog In. So the resistor/cap combo would act as a passive LPF, aka Slew Limiter, for that CV…...

I cut the legs off PCB-mount pots all the time, but I leave more of the leg on there so I can just use the existing hole like a lug. Given what you have, I’d probably loop the wires through the remaining hole (the ones on the PCB-like stuff), give them a twist, and solder to the flat piece of...

Patching something other than the TB into that side of the Paralyzer would be an easy way to eliminate the Paralyzer audio path as a potential problem. If you haven’t tried that already.

Couple questions: • You’re trying to build all three of these into one enclosure, with a shared power supply? • So, Tonebender and MG connected to the same power jack/supply, and both work? • But when you add the Paralyzer to the same supply, the Tonebender loses power? Is that right?

It would be expensive to use on everything, but if you have the occasional stubborn and/or many-pinned IC to de-solder, Chip-Quik (or generic equivalent) can be very handy.

An easy way to build up some stock of stuff that’ll probably be useful is to start with one of those BOMs then up the quantities of all the resistors, capacitors, transistors, and diodes to wherever the first price break is (usually either 10 or 25 at Mouser). Also, Mouser doesn’t have very...