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Perhaps the crummiest build report you'll ever see, but here it is. I only happened to snap one pic, but I'm bored at work so figured I'd post nonetheless. How did we get here? Well, it starts with a Katana boost.... I ordered one with the intention of putting it in a 1590B...

Yep, as above - you can just see where the sleeve (ground) is connected to its respective lug. With TRS plugs, generally speaking the lug will be directly across from the corresponding plug/contact. You already know which one the sleeve is, so the tallest contact (tip) will have the tip lug...

Same in Safari for me - 16.2 beta but has been for a while now. As above - click the search box, rotate your screen to landscape orientation, then back to portrait and it should force the search bar to appear....

Hi all - hoping you can help me on my comp-quest. I’ve been on the hunt for a compressor with a couple different settings. I typically use a very light amount of compression always-on. Right now that’s by way of a Diamond comp. But I also like a more pronounced/squashed compression for...

Same case for me. Really had been excited to try, wanted to like it, but just not for me. I double- and triple-checked the bias and it’s bang on where it’s supposed to be but I don’t know… it feels really “brittle” or “stiff” to me. Maybe something else is wrong but otherwise I’m not a huge fan...

Would anyone have a source for some 1590g drill templates (or willing to whip one up real quick 😂)? I’m specifically looking to make a Katana/Cleaver in one and I think it should fit but not sure I trust myself to lay it out and drill it myself without guidance… 😅

That's super interesting to me. Thanks so much for the explainer. Probably making myself sound a bit silly. It sounds a little obvious now as I understand some components can function just fine passively, but I guess having never really given it any serious thought I kind of just assumed...

So, just for sake of learning...I'm curious. I'm a total noob when it comes to reading schematics. More or less I understand what the various components are, but only have the very most tenuous grasp of how things interact with each other and how to follow connections. So I'm looking at the...

Yeah, I'm wondering if that's not the simplest solution. Just run it at 18V, keep the others "stock" at 9v w/ charge pump and not mess with pulling anything.

Oh yep, you're right. Must've got it mixed up with another though not sure which. Maybe I was just thinking of running it at 18v...I don't remember :P So I guess my question then would more or less be...Would there be any appreciable difference (for either the informant/cleaver) running at 18v...

Long story short, I'm running out of 9V outputs on my power supply but it does have an 18V output that I'm not presently using. I have a handful of pedals with a charge pump so I'd assume that connecting them to the 18V out of the supply wouldn't be good, but at the same time some of them step...

Replaced the footswitch (both with and without the included daughterboard) and now it's the opposite: Bypasses fine, nothing when engaged. I'm sure it's something obvious I'm overlooking but this one's just gonna be shelved for a bit, lol.

Got some new switches in. Silly/simple question - would wiring up the Kliche *without* the breakout board be the same as is shown in the build doc for the Kliche Mini? S1 on the PCB to 3PDT lug 1, S2 to lug 2, S3 to lug 3 on the left side...and then on the right S4 to Lug 7, S5 to Lug 8, S6...

I just have to give some shout outs here. I know very little about circuit design, it's mostly paint-by-numbers for me, but am always looking to learn more...I don't have this particular pedal, but just wanna say it was cool to see this discussion go down, Chuck walking thru the circuit and...

Looks like OP never posted again. Wonder how this turned out? :P

Yep, used the included PCB... I am a bit heavy-handed thorough with my solder on the switch PCBs, so maybe there is some underneath the board causing an issue but I couldn't or measure anything that seemed glaringly off. Ultimately it's just a cheapo Tayda switch though so maybe I just got a dud.

Nothing too much at the moment. Crazy busy but managed to find a few minutes over lunch break to re-flow and double check the connections to/from the footswitch but haven't had a chance to test yet...Hopefully tonight if I'm lucky. If that's no good then I'll need to order some new 3PDTs...

IIRC Hammond enclosures use 6-32 screws which would be imperial... I assume Tayda's Hammond clones would use the same

I don't know about comparing vs ultra-high end boutiquey-parts but I have compared some Tayda builds against the "real thing" and found no appreciable differences, at least not that couldn't be accounted for by simple parts tolerances... Tommy vs Timmy, Glory Hole vs Morning Glory, Pauper vs...

I will start by double-checking the connections to the main/3pdt PCBs. Seems like an easy first-check. I don't think I have any spare 3PDTs on hand (or any other footswitches at all, for that matter, haha). I know I've read in the past that if you're not careful and lay down too much solder on...