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Yes of course, but is was an obvious and easy thing to check. The signal on one end of C12 was fine but on the other it went bad. No change. ChatGPT then wanted to look at the voltage section and zeroed in on C6, the 470u cap. It suggested changing it out which did not work. Then it...

I'm pretty sure that may be the case. I uploaded the entire schematic yesterday and it's analysis made no sense as it had connections between parts at opposite ends of the schematic. I do agree with it that the problem may be centered on C12, 2u2 cap. I still need to switch it out.

You're right As an experiment I uploaded the shcematic section coming off IC.2 pin 6 to chatgpt and asked what the culprit may be. It correctly identifies all the involved parts and it's first suggestion was a bad 2u2 cap in that area. I haven't had time to try it yet.

Apologies for the snarky comment I deleted today. The information in the extensive post, I already know. I just wondered if I missed something or if a more useful board layout existed. There is something wrong with, I think, a supply of 2u2 capacitors as the nasty buzzing still exists...

Awesome! Thanks

Thanks! I have isolated the problem (loud buzzing) to a section of the schematic, coming off pin 6, but want to make sure before I start replacing parts.

I'm debugging a Derailer and I must be missing something obvious. Since the board and layout diagram identify parts by value how does one find a specific part on the board when there are multiples of a single value. I think I have an good idea due to proximity to other parts but I can't be...

I used to put a lot of parts on the board u til I had a rash of problems because I missed soldering them.

When I bought a guitar from Sweetwater I asked for an extra bag of candy to keep my wife happy. It worked.

Can I assume that C100 is a 100UF electrolytic cap? It's not on any build document but C14 is and it's 100uf. And D100 is a 1n5817?

No, I'll build it as one of the listed variants. I'm essentially on the hunt for the Holy Grail which was a 1970's Muff that I should never have sold. Got a great price but should have kept it.

Fair enough. I overreacted. That is the assumption I would have made but didn't want to build it and have to go back and correct it. Love the cartoon.

I'm using the Muffin Fuzz build doc as people suggested. But C12 is listed as 100nf but the PCB shows it as an electrolytic which I assume is not 100nf. Which is it? I just looked at again, and it looks like all 100nf caps in the doc are shown on the board as electrolytics. Why not just...

I have the build doc. So, the switch chooses which Muff variant is active?

Just so I'm clear, the tone bypass becomes a switch between the 2 type of Muff, correct? And, are the tone switch bypass modifications (R24 and C15) no longer applicable? It looks like those 2 parts are no longer on the board.

I’ve built both and I think the Tim just adds a boost to a Timmy. The Tim I built was the Short Bus by Madbean.

I’ve found Tayda is still more convenient and less expensive than getting various parts from multiple vendors.

I finally got around to your suggestions and now it sounds very close. I built a clone of Durham Crazy Horse and it gets even very close as well as the voltage starve control woks well. Thanks for the help. I need to see which guitars and amp settings work best.

It is a cool build, nice graphics and excellent workmanship. I meant no disrespect.