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And there I was, thinking it was only a typo :D Good job on finding the issue that quickly!

Hi Alec, below mine. I added Q14 and Q15. Please note that my LT1054 pin 1 is lifted (because my PCB has pin 1 and 8 shorted; not that I needed to lift the leg, was just a bit superstitious I guess ;)). Measurements taken on Speed 1 (Speed 1 LED on), no input/output cable connected, all pots...

Hi Alec, I have a stock Electro Vibe, no mods, which is working. If you want me to measure anything with a DMM let me know. Happy to help. Kind regards, Seb P.S.: I also have an audio probe. Can try stuff out with that, too.

Is the lamp flashing? Did you try it in the dark (with the case closed)?

I got a Cetus that is working fine (in my opinion :)). I'll post the voltages, hope it helps. Anything else you want me to measure let me know. All pots at 12 o'clock, cables connected. IC100 7.62 3.81 0 -3.58 -7.28 3.05 3.11 7.63 IC1 0 0 0 -7.29 0 0 0 7.63 IC2 0 0 0 -7.29 0 0 0 7.63

I made a test and grounded the input of the inactive channel. That stopped the LEDs of the inactive channel from flickering immediately. It made no difference to the sound of the active channel. I take that to mean there's nothing wrong with my pedal. Moving on :)

Hi! Nope that doesn't seem to be the cause. I unscrewed the jacks to lift up the cables a bit, didn't make a dent.

Yes that's right. I connected the slanted corners of the jacks. Initially I had it exactly like in the PedalPCB document. But then I had lots of noise from the passthrough, I could almost not hear the guitar, only lots of noise. I read somewhere that this could happen with isolated power...

Can anybody please check on their Thermionic Deluxe if this behavior is normal? I saw some pictures where lug 6 (middle lug in bottom row) of the channel 3pdt is connected (contrary to PedalPCB build doc) and I'm wondering if this might be the solution. Although I can never see where lug 6 got...

Looks great! I'm waiting/hoping for Musikding to stock this pedal so I can order one, too :)

If you have the Musikding kit maybe also check if you have a blue/red dual LED. If that's the case try to get your hands on a 5mm common cathode green/red one. The blue/red is not the correct LED and is way too bright. I replaced mine today.

Here's the wiki page where you see what the pins are on your key jacks: PedalPCB wiki I think there's no way you can remove the soldered pins from the THAT4305 PCB. I guess you need to buy a replacement.

No, that's not what I said (maybe I wasn't clear enough). Both my clean sound and distorted sound get gated the same way. I reread your first post above. About the first Muzzle you built for your friend you wrote: "zero hum and no loss of sustain or attack, and it didn't cut the feedback." For...

I checked the manual for the Fortin Zuul "Blackout" from Fortin website. I have a Musikding Buffered Splitter so I cabled everything up like on page 2 of the manual, the first example ("4 Cable Method - With FX Loop"). So the Muzzle's left side jack was not connected. It didn't matter if the...

Yesterday I tested with pedal chain only, Muzzle key passthrough between Treble Booster and dirt, then Muzzle input/output after Delay and then into the amp. This morning I put Chorus and Delay into the loop of my Marshall Studio Classic and then connected the Muzzle input to Delay output and...

Hi Elijah, I just finished a Musikding kit Muzzle as well. It seems to work fine. Wired up the KEY passthrough as per build doc, but it was really noisy. I think because my power supply is isolated. So I connected the sleeves of the KEYs (slanted corners) together with a cable, which sorted...

Just saw your other question. Yes, when I switch to high gain channel and increase gain of low gain channel far enough, then also the low gain channel LEDs L3B and L4B start flickering a bit.

Sorry, I don't think I answered your question correctly. Yes, the gain control of the inactive channel has an effect on those LEDs lighting up. When gain is increased they flicker brighter, when decreased they flicker less bright. And if decreased far enough they stop flickering altogether.

Hi there, yes indeed, when I turn down the gain of the high gain channel and strum while in low gain channel, then the high gain channel LEDs L3A and L4A stay off.

True. They just light up when I strum, like written in first post.