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Those TL072s are purty! (the build too!)

a drop of gel or liquid flux on the joints and then 2-3 seconds of reflow would probably make most of them look alright. still good job putting it together!

My only thought is that it can't be PT2399.., BBD or digital?

I really want to build one, but the thought of debugging a sandwich like that made me hesitate. It's a fairly large circuit after all, more likely that something goes wrong. So big box it is when I get around to it. Sort of the same argument as choosing outie dc jack, not enjoying 1590a...

Really? IC1 leg #4 and IC4 leg #4 should be connected to GND, i'd put a lead on the backside of the pcb between one of those legs and the GND pad. If you check the schematic (pg.10 or 7..). there's many other components connected to GND, if you have a multimeter it can be good to check that...

I got to try the Andonstar (and also an optical microscope) today which made me accidentally press the buy button for the Tomlov I've posted above. I hope this doesn't mean I have to Lov someone called Tom.

Thank you! 🥰

Ah, I've been meaning to ask the board about TC7660H, no downsides beside the max input voltage?

Your description of the mod version sounds more in parity with mine built with stock values / components, according to 2.5rev on Fuzzdog pcb https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/product/25rev Makes me think that it could have something to do with through-hole J201's vary more than smd mmbfj201 and...

I'm no pro and never worked with the fv-1 makes me want to back out, but my feeling is that it's audio probe time? I usually start at both ends, make sure there's a decent signal in to the board, and then first step after that is if bypassing the last pontentiometer does anything for the signal...

Funny, I've ordered both and they've been shipped too.

They activate it automatically on LCSC once you have an active JLCPCB order!

I've been thinking about this a bit before, my thoughts were mostly along the lines of taking KR Sounds' idea and make the hole smaller. (Robert posted link in this thread) Bottom and top board screwed together, the top board has a small square hole, 2.40x2.92mm, where you put the transistor...

i put copper tape on a sheet of acrylic and push down the transistor (not upside down) with a rubber block and it measures successfully on 9 out of 10 tries or so

So.. I ordered a small pcb from JLC today, $2 for the 5 pcbs + $1.40 shipping (global direct, 10-14 days) That meant I got a $15 shipping discount at LCSC, I had a bunch of stuff I wanted to order from them so I ordered components for $20 or so and no shipping! I'm not saying I ordered...

Yeah, but I'm in the EU, they've sorted out how to declare that properly , which meant just VAT (25%) no punitive customs fee. I ordered from them a month ago, got here in less than a week.

No perceivable difference, and build quality was excellent. Doesn't feel like Aliexpress/Temu orders which can have slightly off markings, or too thin legs, slightly off color, or some or other less than perfect quality property. I feel like if you can't build the component fully to spec and...

I've never noticed anything, I just like that they're not as sensitive to soldering iron mishaps.

I like Mouser, I like LCSC, I like TME (poland), I like Tayda, etc. But I'm a bit tired of there's like a need for small orders from most of them to cover all the stuff I need or want (or sometimes preference) for my projects.

I bought lots of red ones from LCSC , search for polyester capacitor and then filter them with P=5.0mm plus 100V and under, and your search results will be glowing red like the east https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_East_Is_Red_(song) Bonus, the manufacturers are called stuff like Joey, Kyet...