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nvm, figured it out. I tried a 1054 and got the same result, so I broke down and took the pedal apart. I was checking for continuity across various pins and found that D101 and 102 did not have continuity. I must have severed the trace in the PCB when I trimmed their legs. I installed a jumper...

Hi all, I'm getting no sound from my recently built Powersound. I audioprobed it and I have signal up until pin 2 of Q1, but nothing on pin 3, which makes me think the VCC is wacky. What voltage should I be getting at pins 2 and 8 of the 1044? I'm currently getting 4.5v at pin 2, 8.9v at pin 8...

oof that's a bummer. Gently scratch off with an exacto knife some of the green coating on the traces that go to the missing pads. Put a really thin tip on your soldering iron and tin the exposed copper traces. Then solder a cut off of a component leg to the trace, with the other end contacting...

Too soon

hehehe

Hang on, gonna hit the snooze button just for a minute longer...

Here's one from my most recent batch of pedals. A while ago found a guy on reddit who does custom knobs, and I asked him to make me a set of transparent orange 1" MXR knobs. When I painted this enclosure I realized they would be perfect for this color scheme. i went back and forth between...

https://www.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/KEMET/EA2-4.5NU?qs=UeqeubEbzTV30XCd%2FlOLMA%3D%3D

^ Yeah I picked up 20 of those bad boys for my 125b builds so they'd be more secure. I cannot tell you how good it felt using my 1/4" ratchet and a real socket on pedal hardware

It's really easy. Starting from the footswitch for the compressor, grab the wire coming from the footswitch's OUT terminal. This is the one that would normally go to the output jack. Then connect its other end straight to the Sproing's footswitch's IN terminal. This is the terminal that, in the...

Here's where I ended up with the switching (sorry about the quality)

Thanks, I gotcha. I'll grab the power from the LED circuit. When the LED is grounded out (for example in pos 1 with one LED on, the other will have - applied to both pins) this would cause the power for the LED to go from + thru a 4.7k resistor then to -. Would that be an issue?

What do you mean by "least interactive?"

I'm trying to do a thing with a pedal that has a spdt on/off/on switch. I'd like to use a dpdt instead and use the second set of contacts to illuminate two LED's depending on switch position. So pos 1, green LED on, pos 3, blue LED on. But here's the kicker - pos 2, both on. Is there a clever...

I'm thinking of doing two of them in one enclosure for the same reason - two different delay times. The way my pedalboard is set up I'd put them in a 1590bx2, but for a normal kind of pedal, you could order a 1590q from hawk electronics and fit both boards into that. A 1590q is like a square...

No, MLCC are not polarized. You can install it either way

Last year I tried working out how to mount everything to one board with the idea of eliminating off board wiring. I worked out that the only kind of jacks that would work are the big neutrik ones that sit recessed inside the enclosure and the nut is a sleeve with threads that goes thru the...

Your best bet for that middle pot is a plastic dust cap. For now, pull it away from the board to eliminate the chance of the leads on the back of the board poking thru. All it takes is one tiny poke to cause issues like you're describing. Definitely put together an audio probe. It's really...

I'm putting this here because I don't want to start a new thread. The relay for the non latching basic relay board is unavailable from mouser and out of stock at Tayda, but this seems to be a direct replacement

I have this one. Things I like: big screen does capacitance, diodes, freq things I don't like battery saver alarm and auto off that you can't disable I don't trust the auto range selection button is annoying in that it defaults to AC when selecting volts