Bring out yer Diptrace
- Thread starter Grubb
- Start date
jessenator
Well-known member
After looking at the price of PDIP TLC2272s (and weeping), I'm coming up with an adapter that can double a "stacked " setup if one wants to channel the Barber mojo, all on as close to a PDIP-8 footprint as I can.
Last edited:
jessenator
Well-known member
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
I believe we called it “piggybacking” back then
falco_femoralis
Well-known member
Last year I tried working out how to mount everything to one board with the idea of eliminating off board wiring. I worked out that the only kind of jacks that would work are the big neutrik ones that sit recessed inside the enclosure and the nut is a sleeve with threads that goes thru the enclosure holes into the jacks. Those are cool but they're 19mm across and would place the jacks too close together for my liking.
On top of that, I believe a board mounted power jack would not be as robust as an internally nutted (hehe) big style power jack with a big plastic retaining nut. So there is going to be some off board wiring. So I may as well just off board wire the audio jacks too, since it would be like 2 or 3 extra wires max.. yeah?
Instead of that I came up with this system with two boards: one is a daughter board with everything that mates to the top face of the enclosure: all the pots and switches. I made it universal so it can work with any configuration of pots and switches, up to 4 pots and 2 switches. Then there is the main board, which has the audio jacks, circuit, as well as Robert's relay bypass layout. The two boards interface with each other using two right angle pin headers that fit between the boards. Once the pot board is in place, the main board slots into the pin headers and the audio jacks are secured into their holes. Two wires for the foot switch and two more for the power jack. Nice! Four wires!
Here's the back of the pot board. This is what you see when looking into the pedal with the back removed. Two of the pots are piggy backed because this is a 1590b and four pots are pretty much the limit on what I like to put on a 1590b. So the two pots would never be populated at the same time. I used 9mm pots due to the height restraint of the 1590b.
Here's the mating side of the main board. The pin headers here make it so the whole board slides up onto the pot board, and is then secured in place with the audio jacks. This circuit doesn't need connections for every pot and switch, so I pinned them so I can use smaller pin headers if I only need SPDT connections and 3 pots.
Here's the part of the board you see when opening up the back of the enclosure. There is 2mm space on each side of the audio jacks, enough for interior nuts to place the jacks so they extend just enough so nuts and washers fit on the outside with no thread showing. The backing nuts for the audio jacks allow for fine adjustments forward and back to eliminate strain on the connectors. I'm using these jacks here. I derived the dimensions of the 1590b enclosure using one of the ones on amazon and a set of calipers. I took the minimum dimensions and created a pattern in diptrace for it. As I went I created patterns and components for other parts, like the jacks and some others. I got the connectors to interface with the schematic in a clean way by creating potentiometer and switch components as net ports so I can put the connector in its own place in the schem.
My layout isn't as elegant as I'd like. I tried to keep trace lengths as short and straight as I can but it seems crowded in some parts and sparse in others. I feel a more vertical layout would work better, and I should start at the connectors and work outwards. With this one, I was trying to retain some of a previous layout that I liked, and perhaps I should have let it go. The placement of the footswitch pads is not ideal but to fix it I'll have to redo everything and I ain't about that atm.
So with the two board idea I now have (for this circuit) 24 additional pads to solder, while getting rid of 8 wires (16 connections), not including the extra parts for the relay bypass. Is it worth it? What's the point of anything?
On top of that, I believe a board mounted power jack would not be as robust as an internally nutted (hehe) big style power jack with a big plastic retaining nut. So there is going to be some off board wiring. So I may as well just off board wire the audio jacks too, since it would be like 2 or 3 extra wires max.. yeah?
Instead of that I came up with this system with two boards: one is a daughter board with everything that mates to the top face of the enclosure: all the pots and switches. I made it universal so it can work with any configuration of pots and switches, up to 4 pots and 2 switches. Then there is the main board, which has the audio jacks, circuit, as well as Robert's relay bypass layout. The two boards interface with each other using two right angle pin headers that fit between the boards. Once the pot board is in place, the main board slots into the pin headers and the audio jacks are secured into their holes. Two wires for the foot switch and two more for the power jack. Nice! Four wires!
Here's the back of the pot board. This is what you see when looking into the pedal with the back removed. Two of the pots are piggy backed because this is a 1590b and four pots are pretty much the limit on what I like to put on a 1590b. So the two pots would never be populated at the same time. I used 9mm pots due to the height restraint of the 1590b.
Here's the mating side of the main board. The pin headers here make it so the whole board slides up onto the pot board, and is then secured in place with the audio jacks. This circuit doesn't need connections for every pot and switch, so I pinned them so I can use smaller pin headers if I only need SPDT connections and 3 pots.
Here's the part of the board you see when opening up the back of the enclosure. There is 2mm space on each side of the audio jacks, enough for interior nuts to place the jacks so they extend just enough so nuts and washers fit on the outside with no thread showing. The backing nuts for the audio jacks allow for fine adjustments forward and back to eliminate strain on the connectors. I'm using these jacks here. I derived the dimensions of the 1590b enclosure using one of the ones on amazon and a set of calipers. I took the minimum dimensions and created a pattern in diptrace for it. As I went I created patterns and components for other parts, like the jacks and some others. I got the connectors to interface with the schematic in a clean way by creating potentiometer and switch components as net ports so I can put the connector in its own place in the schem.
My layout isn't as elegant as I'd like. I tried to keep trace lengths as short and straight as I can but it seems crowded in some parts and sparse in others. I feel a more vertical layout would work better, and I should start at the connectors and work outwards. With this one, I was trying to retain some of a previous layout that I liked, and perhaps I should have let it go. The placement of the footswitch pads is not ideal but to fix it I'll have to redo everything and I ain't about that atm.
So with the two board idea I now have (for this circuit) 24 additional pads to solder, while getting rid of 8 wires (16 connections), not including the extra parts for the relay bypass. Is it worth it? What's the point of anything?