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we need 9V+ with at least 500mA to make it work. There's a voltage pump implemented in the circuit, to make it feed the tubes around 200V from a standard 9V DC power supply. Good point, that could easily be the issue.

it looks like it's upside down but i dont think it is. Check this other build reports : https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/c2ce-black-eye.27118/ The usual suspects on this build are the tube-daughterboards connectors, with small soldering pads very close to each other.

In my experience, using perfboard vs stripboard greatly depends on the circuit we want to do. For small circuits the stripboard will work fine but for anything a bit complex with more parts we will need the perfboard and do all the traces ourselves. It's also a matter of which layout can do the...

On my build LED2 is always on, when the tremolo is engaged LED2 and 1 are pulsating in asymetric timing. And when the flanger is engaged, LED3 lights up without pulsating. So you need that LED1 to light up. Check if it's getting some current with your multimeter, check the polarity orientation...

The flanger is the middle switch, green led on your build, it should be pulsating when the flanger is activated. At the Space OUT/Mono output, you should be able to hear both the tremolo and the flanger, if the effects are activated. The feedback (Reaction pot) is very strong on this circuit...

You should hear the flanger by itself at the Time output, without the tremolo effect. However, depending on the BBD led brightness, the modulation can disappear when Manual is set in the first half of the rotation. The modulation is stronger in the second half of the rotation, going CW. And...

I play bass too, i built a dozen of bass overdrive kits, they're all great. But the best i ever built is the BassDude frome Conspiracy to Commit Electronics. Probably the ultimate Bass overdrive circuit if you enjoy tube distortion. Based on the Fender Bassman amplifier, it has something warmer...

Well, no. You need to probe at various points between In and Out, because there is a connection between C5 at the beginning of the circuit, and C19 at the end. So having sound at the beginning and at the end of the circuit doesnt mean there aren't any issues in the middle of the signal path. It...

There are 5 connectors to connect the 2 pcb. 4 of them are for the BBD and Resonnance sections, the last one at the top of the pcbs is probably providing current and ground to the daughterboard.

red : quick path that doesnt explore the full circuit, probing here and there will help you locate where the signal stops and find suspicious aera. green : quickpath to check if the signal is going in the BBD and Resonnance parts of the circuit, and comes back correctly.

found something on a similar thread, i hope it's accurate : https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-Byzantium-WIP.png

If you are sure about your soldering joints and checked with a continuity test all suspicious pads, you can try to narrow it down with an audioprobe. https://diy-fever.com/misc/audio-probe/ You can find the signal path by drawing the shortest line from IN to OUT on the schematics. Circuit...

Nice build ! You know there's a mod to get more usable range on the volume and Gain pots with A10k pots ? It's a very useful mod for this circuit in my experience, makes it easier to dial some low to medium gain sounds. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/derailer-gain-mods.5361/ The build...

This one looks like there's not enough solder, other pads also look suspicious to me. Might be an issue with your soldering technic. Set the iron around 380 or 400°C, get the tip of the iron in contact with both the pad and the component's leg in order to simultaneously heat both of them for 2...

Finally i added a little relief on the truss rod, like half a quarter of a turn. It gave me a little more action when pressing the 1st and last fret. It fixed the buzzing on the 1st fret. Then i lowered the bridge saddles on the low D and G strings which lowered the action height without any...

i found a quick way to check. Capo on the 1st fret, a finger on the last fret. There's almost no space between the string and the frets. Almost no action, the string doesnt touch the frets but it's very close. my .46mm pick cant pass the 7th fret without touching the string, a piece of paper can...

if i strum gently the low D string pressing at the 1st fret, it doesnt buzz. But if i strum with a bit more energy, the buzz is audible both acoustic and amplified. And that's what happens with high action height. If i calibrate the bridge saddles and the bridge height back at factory values...

Hello, I recently got a PRS SE custom 24. It was delivered with factory strings, 9-42 i think, tuned in standard E. https://www.thomannmusic.com/prs_se_custom_24_08_quilt_lb.htm?__cTr=8775a34f-22b0-4fdd-8afe-c4745fc0fa35&shp=eyJjb3VudHJ5IjoidXMiLCJsYW5ndWFnZSI6Mn0%3D&reload=1 When i replaced...

https://parasitstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/go-x/u/2dc912a6-e312-498a-b2e2-75eae5774c26/C82-Micro-doc.pdf https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/aemDocuments/documents/MCU08/ProductDocuments/DataSheets/AVR32DB28-32-48-DataSheet-DS40002301.pdf C82 is built around the AVR32DB28 chip. Probably the...

Im not sure i really understand what's happening between these two circuits, and i was probably wrong in post #9. And maybe it's a good exercise for beginners in audio electronics From what i experience with this wiring setup (see attached files), The first part of the Blender circuit from...