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You sure the equivalent is an A with a grounded input and not an ungrounded C like he already has?

If you havent asked Ampeg yet, I would send them a message. That's really the only way you are gonna know for sure which one it needs.

I thought it was Tah dah, like you just did a magic trick. 😁

Sorry, you are right. Solid state amps tend to use tanks with a higher input impedance. I don't see it specified in the schematic but from what I see online, other ss ampegs use something like a 4FB3A1C

You can just disconnect the cable from the tank input and test the tip and sleeve of the cable.

I think the 4bb3c1b is the wrong tank for it. I think it is supposed to be a 4Ab3c1b. It has a different input impedance. https://mojotone.com/blogs/news/understanding-reverb-tanks-what-those-letters-and-numbers-really-mean?srsltid=AfmBOorEMLASFsjYPoRgedIYK_lzKEr7_NE0l7Vpm6uTk9WBKkC2BSS0

The schematic has a test point TP13 with voltages for the input to the reverb pan. If you have a multimeter, that would be a good starting point.

I did the same and ended up getting a couple of these in the suggested hfe 51-60 range. I have not tried them yet so fingers crossed. https://synthcube.com/2n1304-germanium-transistor-npn-motorola-k0427/

I remembered I have an old short reverb tank and it will fit very nicely in the bottom of the enclosure. Anybody know of a small reverb driver board I could tack on to this thing. There is actually a good bit of space in the chassis.

So it turns out that there is a jumper in the path from VR2 to C20. I'll just snip it and use the ends to install the effects loop without having to unsolder anything. C20 is circled in blue, jumper is red

Cool, thanks for the input. I'll probably add a full send and return buffered effects loop to it. Why change the cutoff freq? Also, the speaker was blown and repaired but sounded like the coil was rubbing so I ordered a replacement Celestion Eight 15 4ohm. Hopefully that will help out with the...

Awesome. I didn't realize that. I looked up the 3005 schematic and the preamp is very close to it with mostly the same values. R10 and R17 from the TC schematic are the main differences I see

A quirk that I'd like to fix is that you can't make it just clean. When you turn the tube crunch knob all the way down, it is silent. VR1 becomes just a short to ground. Also, I'd like to figure out how to have a footswitch to go from clean to distort.

I didn't realize Aion had a project for the preamp. Anybody build this one? How did it sound? https://aionfx.com/project/positron-preamp-drive/

I got a free TC-35 and Im going to open it up and clean it up and deoxit the pots and whatnot. Any suggestions for mods or tweaks while I'm in there? The tone stack doesn't seem to be quite right, it has no bass.

Understanding filters is a key component to audio circuits. Maybe start with something less advanced. Get a breadboard and play with some high and low pass filters in different parts of the circuit and see how they change the sound.

Worked fine from my phone

Bypass switches are almost always normally open. There would have to be something very strange going on for it to be normally closed.

Yes, contact them. That's some BS

Looks like they also announced general availability of the "Seed2 DFM" with "Differential audio outputs for superior noise performance". Is this the answer to the noise issues? https://electro-smith.com/products/daisy-seed2-dfm