Search results

Apart from vast amount of possible cold solder joints first thing to check is GND problem with bad contact on red circles marked. Also there’s a good change for a bridge with wiring exposed and between solder blobs. Use less flux and check your soldering station heat setting to the point where...

It’s afraid. 🙄

Most of ’em can be modified to what you want by changing master bypass wiring to buffer on/off. Buffer on/off wiring to switch is done as normal 3PDT bypass wiring scheme and switch output goes to A/B-switch input. Pick your poison from http://www.muzique.com/lab/buffers.htm and we’re able to...

In stereo mode A/B channel outputs are not parallel, but RobotZombie stated using only A channel. A has two parallel mono outputs.

Amp outputs are most likely parallel so two 4ohm cabs are 2ohms combined with what you suggest. It could be manageable, but could cause excessive heat and output power.

One 4ohm system could be 2x8ohm parallel speakers or cabinets connected to ONE output jack and two 8ohm systems connected to TWO output jacks makes ’em parallel too and gives same 4ohm. System is speaker or speaker system with multiple speakers.

Rated speaker impedance is nominal value as impedance varies greatly with frequency. Usually it’s fine to mismatch amp output and speaker impedance double over suggested value in amp, but you have to remember it can change load on output transformer/circuit and cause less or more heat stress. If...

I’m derailing topic here, but when I first read topic title I thought @BorisOldesloe wants to start a thread quiz about ”What Rat variant YOU are?”

I just had show of my life.

Red = COLD JOINT/partial contact, reflow at higher temp and get yourself more familiar how your soldering tip behaves with your solder Yellow = possible cold joint hiding, reflowing probably necessary Green = excellent joint, congratulations Pre-tin your wires before soldering! From my...

I’d remove all outboard connections. Then look build doc wiring guide, follow it precisely and trim wire lengths short as possible. Now you have extra connections between grounds and wires are so long they could act as hum picking antennas. After that lets dive into component values?

Any dirty IC boost works, flavor is you to choose. I also heard if your extreme enough you could put muff before rat.

That crotch toggle is misaligned just few millimeters! ;)

I need to build octave fuzz too! Is there updated build doc or schematic with tweaks available? Or should I just bump @Robert . :)

That was a good share @drew.spriggs , full of useful info bits and tricks to try. :)

What’s the value of resistance you get @Feral Feline ?

No need to get into it as all the info ever needed is there hold by guitarnutzTWO. :)

In peepeecb schematic there’s no 100nF capacitor to ground/shield for gnd ref and for HF/RF noise rejection. Some circuits include it parallel between positive and neg leads after first filter electrolytic filter capacitor (values vary from 22-220uF). Or you do it like in my sketch and 100nF cap...

Does it chirp in the enclosure and when you add 100nF as my sketch below suggests? Electrolytic capacitor value is microfarad, not pico!

Care to share cap’n’pot values with P90s? I have TB+V controls currently on my baritone with only one P90, but thinking about rewiring it, because currently treble cut isn’t effective practically and bass cut just cuts too deep. Gonna add humbucker to it too, but into middle position as I don’t...