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It hasn't been released into the wild yet bud, I've been waiting a year. Stock has been 0 since it's page went up, so you haven't missed out on anything, yet.

The yellow wire is going to the CLR/anode LED under the PCB, white unsoldered wire is cathode. CLR on anode is 2k2. Only works when I touch cathode to ground of 9v jack of course. LED pads on PCB do not work. Heat shrink on led under PCB. Effect works perfect minus no led. If the LED pads don't...

Sooo, the LED is blinding when I connect it from the DC jack to ground. So looks like the LED pads on the foot switch PCB are kaput. Where else can I connect the cathode of the LED on the switch or main PCB so it turns on/off with bypass?

Absolutely, I'll be to my shop in an hour. I also built the PPCB version (Valhalla), so if all else fails, I'll fall back on that. Just like the signal I'm getting from Aion a bit more for my rig.

Is there another place on the actual PCB I can jump the LED to from the 9v DC jack to try that also? I used the breakout board for the foot switch as well, the LED struggles big time on its led pads. I remember seeing in a post here a diagram for jumping an led from the DC connection to another...

Yeah for sure, this is the only pedal they don't light up on. I have some from SDP, Amazon, GPCB, Amp Parts, Antique Elec, so it's definitely not the LEDs.

I'm gonna give that a try when I get to my shop today. Not sure if the DC-DC converter is causing this issue or not. The docs call for the usual 4.7k, but you have to cup your hand over the light to make sure it's even on.

Started with the LED soldered to the LED pads, beyond dim, likely barely lit. Changed LED, still didn't work, changed LED color, no luck. Jumped the LED with/without clr from the 9v Jack, same result. Never had this happen before, beyond stumped.

So I built the Aion DZ4 preamp (love it) a while back, and have been having a ton of LED issues. The LED is insanely dim, I can barely tell when the pedal is engaged or not. I've changed the CLR all over the board, removed the connection from the LED pads on the PCB to all over the board...

Are 33 1n4148 diodes really necessary.......... Edit: yeah......so.........I missed the upper board.........40.......

How about the Q1-3 order? I put sockets on mine and forgot to see if they were listed on the silk screen since there is no build doc.

The obvious and only choice is to make him an HM-2, for banjo of course.

Yeah man, totally was just a random buy for me. The build doc says that it's been a staple on his board, so I was definitely interested. Majorly pleasantly surprised, it sounds SO damn good!

I have a PRS Custom 24 08 that I absolutely adore. I'm able to play it better than any of the other guitars I own. Problem is, it is the most insanely honkiest guitar I've ever played, when played using overdrive. Tried EQ pedal, changing pickup height, changing action, settings on amp. After...

Does it matter/make a difference if a schematic calls for R14,017 to be 10k, and I use 9.91? Or as long as it's in the scope of the +/- tolerance and doesn't make a difference?

@TucsonSean is that schematic you provided for modding the Dunlop volume pedal? I just picked up the 5 last week and it would be awesome to add a on/off switch to that

In your drawing, do you have the - leg of the LEDs going to the sleeves of the jacks as well as the poles of the switch?

100% without any hesitation, a looping pedal. I have the boss RC300. Use Track 1 for a drum track that I make using Toontracks, Track 2 is always a bass line I play on my guitar using a Roland GR midi pedal, Track 3 is guitar chords or layered chords/notes/sounds. Then I solo over the top of...

I prefer OD into Boost, and that's how I've set up all of my dual drives. I like the "boost" in volume, better note definition, and clarity.

He's all sold out, but I love GPCB Afterblaster and Stage 3 Boost. Almost every OD pedal I've built recently, has a tweaked Stage 3 (I use different resistors to attenuate). That way, each pedal has it's own dedicated boost, so I'm not constantly having to futz with any knobs on a boost when I'm...