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I have that same DMM, it 100% doesn't "beep" for $5.99 lol!

Hey @Robert , do you have a drill template for the Nutty Fuzz?

Awesome man, exactly the information I was looking for. Really appreciate the time you took for that great response! Thank you! I should have clarified my initial post better. Looking for higher headroom OD circuits to be less compressed, better note separation and a more dynamic cleaner sound...

Any PCB suggestions welcomed. Was just checking out the Aion Tesseract, which is a boost that goes to 32v. What are some of the highest OD circuits I can build to get a ton of headroom?

I done learnt a new phrase this morn

A perfect opportunity to put those 3 caps on a switch!

I built the Stomp 75 and I absolutely love it. Amazing for chords and especially for solos. I'm a nutcase so I bought a second muffin board and I'm going to be socketing most of the board to be able to switch components in/out to try out the rest. The ones I like the most I'm putting on...

When Small Bear sends you transistors, you never get the exact hfe your hoping to get when you buy. They ALWAYS send you a range of hfe. The only way you can get something specifically tested it to buy their single/double packs which are usually specifically for a certain circuit like a Fuzz...

So here's the easiest way I do it. I used a scrap piece of 24awg wire and scrap LED. Numerical in pictorial order. 1. Strip one end of wire longer than the other 2. Wrap longer side of wire around leg 3. Twist wire around leg 4. Simple blob of solder 5. Cut off excess leg and wire. I cover with...

Wow! Boy am I glad I clicked on this thread! @Cybercow thank you big time for that Electro lead, some incredible information there!

I just built Aion's Cirrus board and those half dome dual pot holes jumped out at me when I first looked at the board. At first I thought half of another print broke off on the top of my Cirrus board haha.

It's actually not, at least for me. I shorted and burned out a few LEDs when the legs touched each other in the bezel. It takes 20 seconds to do the to heat shrink. The wire I buy comes with heat shrink so I mise well use it

I'll take a picture tomorrow when I'm at my shop. Basically I use solid core wire, strip the end for the LED a little longer, and then wrap the exposed wire around the LED leg. The solder has no problem attaching, the "hardest" part is wrapping the wire.

I stopped fighting with that. Now I solder a wire to each leg and then cover each leg with heat shrink tubing. Can snake the LED to wherever I want.

You can put whatever you want in there. LEDs, 1n914, 1n4148.....

If you took out the germanium diodes, I can assure you the pedal will be screaming loud. I put those on a switch to add/remove the germanium diodes. Did the same thing the mosfets and a jumper. My pedal sounds plenty fat and gets very loud, so I'm guessing some component is not correct.

Barry's Stage 3 boost says its 25-30db. Just built it today to add to a combo build with an Archibald tube driver. It's loud, very loud. Plus you can tweak one resistor to change that.

Crazy, the one on the left has the same code as the 1st one @Laundryroom David posted in his list......18MDSHY/ Dr. Shy

Exactly what I was planning on doing. Great idea

Thank you very much for the replies and circuit lesson. You made that very easy to understand and I definitely have a better grasp on what's going on and why. I'll for sure break out my breadboard gear this weekend and do some experiments. I already modded C10/18 with two dpdt toggles with...