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Scabbard drill template The hole for the led is sized at 6mm for one of these bezels. Tayda has the mounting hole sizes listed for the other bezels, so if you want a different one or a bare led, just add 0.2mm to the size of the mounting hole.

This is my second build of the Sputnik II, the first was the DEFX Laika Fuzz V2, which was one of my favorite fuzzes, but in a visually displeasing horizontal 1590BB layout with all the knobs straight across the top. So, I saw @PedalBuilder 's post of his Polaris Fuzz and ordered a board from...

Here's the template I used: Tayda KB Drill Template I ended up widening all of the pot and toggle holes one step with my step bit to make it easier to get everything lined up and in the enclosure for soldering, but it might work as is if you're superduper patient. Example of my build here and a...

I really wanted the KB a year ago when I was messing around with weird ambient type stuff and weirded classical covers, but I've gone back to big dumb power chords and simple riffs blasted with fuzz and no longer really feel the need for parallel mixing. That said, it's a cool pedal and does a...

Arkaim first, very pleasant build. Low parts count, beautiful pcb layout, drill template was spot on for UV printing and drilling my own holes. I don't love the sound on guitar, most high gain metal fuzz sounds kind of cheesy to me, but on bass it's tons of fun and seems like you could find a...

I built a DEFX Zuperbee(SSBS Buzzz) which is a Superfuzz with a bunch of toggles. I didn't pay attention to notice that the orientation of q4 and q5 were reversed and ended up putting q5 in backwards and then scorching/lifting the collector pad when I wicked off the solder and pulled it out. I...

This one was kind of fun and kind of annoying. I mostly did it because it looked like a crazy build, I don't see myself using it very often, maybe for weird song intros, or trying to pretend I can play like Zappa(I can't). I've seen complaints about the build docs in other build reports, mostly...

It took me too long since finding these forums to explore @Chuck D. Bones Boneyard, so much great info in there. I haven't built any of the classic fuzz circuits yet and the Buzzaround seemed like a great place to start. @finebyfine made some nice boards for the Chuckaround circuit and...

Circulator pictures first: I like doing black designs on Tayda's metallic enclosures with no white or gloss layers, but this time I decided to do a gloss coat over the text to help with legibility and it was a success. Maybe more so in the room than in the pictures. I've accepted that I...

Smooth build, nice layout, easy to fit everything. C8 and C13 said NP next to them which I interpreted as "NonPolarized" so I used tantalums because that's what I had in the appropriate value. I socketed the transistors and tried SE4001's and SE4010's from my local "can't believe it's still in...

The Muffinator build went great, violet ram's head specs with Fairchild SE4010's and a tone bypass outlined by @Feral Feline here. Straightforward build, the guide for the tone bypass was great, all I did was lower the value of the bypass resistor to give a volume boost with the tone bypass...

Pretty straightforward build. The only substitution was auditioning different Ge transistors, the guts pic shows a GT402B, which sounded good, but I ended u sticking with the AC128 recommended in the BOM. I got Tungsram Ge transistors from this ebay seller, he lets you specify hfe and I also...

I've checked component values and inspected for solder bridges or melted caps. I scrubbed both sides of the board clean of flux. The only sub I made is an Op07 instead of the LM308, I left the 30pf compensation cap in because I read that it did no harm, could that be causing no sound? I checked...

Here is the schematic: I'm going to add an effects loop based on @DGWVI 's post so I don't really plan to use the onboard modulation, could I use one of those pots as a simple low pass tone control for the feedback, or leave them in and just add the tone control coming off the lifted leg of R44...

I have a Synthrotek Ratatak rat clone board that I just realized calls for a TRS jack on the input, can I just use a TS jack and leave the ring solder point on the board unconnected if I don't plan to add a 9v battery? Or solder the pin from the DC connector jack to the ring solder point? Here...