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Are you saying it gets quiet at r20? If so you have narrowed the issue down to that spot. Try re soldering everything in that area, or just everything, it could be a bad connection. IC2 could be bad. Maybe swap that with another one if you have one, or swap with ic3 to see if that changes it

Looks nice! Is that a Tayda enclosure? What finish is that? I like it.

If so I think you would just disconnect pin 1 of the blend pot. So use a dpdt switch and on a different row have one setting connect pin 1 with r35 and r37 (as it is currently) and the other end of the switch disconnect pin 1 so just r35 and r37 are connected. The second setting above would be...

Hello. Sorry I missed this. Whether you do anything to the wet side of the pot depends on what you want. I assume that the pot would work as normal, but instead of mixing between 2 signals, just reducing the level of the wet. Do you want the wet to be on full when you use the switch?

Are you asking for help on how to do this? If so, put r34 on a switch so one end is connected to pin 3 of blend and the other end of the switch is not connected to anything.

Not quite 10 years. Don’t forget the 2019 election.

Have you tried taking the ic out and putting it back in. Make sure to push it all the way. If you get 0v on pin 8 you are not getting power so it won’t work. Your op amp looks loose in the pic. It looks quite far out of the socket. Anyway your issue is probably here although all your voltages...

I think you have the wrong understanding about how each capacitor affects the crackle. C13 is 10uf and this will have the biggest impact on the crackle. C12 being 1uf means that the crackle is significantly less. In my build I swapped C12 from 1uf to 4.7uf so that the crackle was still...

I do mine at the kitchen table with some masonite underneath to prevent burns. You can do it!

Can you still edit the text after converting to paths? Should not be able to. Re colours, are you sure you are changing the fill colour and not the strike? You only need the 2 swatch colours

I think you are right. It looks like an orange squeezer with a lot of the mods Mark Hammer has suggested along the way. Plus a blend and tone control. Bears no resemblance to the 1776 from what I can see, except the input stage.

Try flipping the transistors the other way. I have never seen a 5088 with that pinout (you might have it right, I just have not seen one). Usually the emitter is the leftmost pin when the flat side is facing you.

What transistors are you using by the way? They might have the wrong pinout which could be your problem

Each stage is different. The input booster stage just makes the signal really loud. If yours is quiet then your problem is here. Clipping stages will distort. It sounds like your pot is wired backwards, that's not really a problem. Sounds like you have a cheap breadboward if the sound cuts...

When you breadboard it, you should build it in stages. Build the input booster stage, then check it works. Then move onto half of the clipping amplifier, check it works, then move to the next.

Ok so if anyone is interested at all I finally figured out what was REALLY going on. My lt1054 was faulty so Q2 was not getting the correct voltage. My trick above helped to pass signal but not to get it to sound good. What a nightmare! At least it sounds good now.

Have you tried re soldering the joints? I know you said they look fine but you really should solder all parts. Especially the parts buddylereow pointed out. I have had a badly soldered capacitor stop a pedal from working eve. Though it looked fine

How did you go with this? Did it work out? Im working on a similar project at the moment.

The 2SK30A-GR seem to have the pinout Source, Drain, Gate, versus the J201, 2n5457 pinout which is Drain, Source, Gate. Are the source and drain interchangeable here or will I need to use a differnet so-23 to to-92 adaptor for this?

With a multimeter, select the mode to measure voltage. Clip the black lead onto ground and touch the red lead onto the pins of the op amp.