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Interesting... I have a Carcass in a temporary enclosure, I really really like it and an extra pot wouldn't hurt

Great builds @TillMack ! Did you have to pay customs to receive the order from Tayda in Europe? I'm from Italy so I'm a bit wary of ordering enclosures from there

Good eye! I'll take a look when I get home, I think it might just be bad lightning though as I've already reflowed the board

It's desoldering time! Edit: actually I managed to test it while still soldered and yeah, the cathode is on the other side. Now it's really desoldering time! :D

I built a Copper Clad fuzz and I have to say I'm a bit underwhelmed by the sound, not very "fuzzy" I'm thinking maybe I installed the germanium diode in the wrong way: I thought the blue line was the cathode but reading a bit (like here...

I'm no expert but looking at the potentiometer "charts" a rev log gets up there sooner and has more control in the upper range so it should work

I've looked around a bit and the general consensus seems to be that the trace reporting it as linear is wrong. Fuzzdog on his build documents for his version states: "as the trace has the fuzz pot as linear taper - no way. It needs to be reverse log to be any use at all, so that's what you'll...

Thanks! It's strange because there's literally a spot where the gain goes BOOM I wonder if a rev log potentiometer could work better...

Just built a Sour Grape and I found that most of the gain is on the last 10% of the Buzz pot. When below, it almost sounds "overdrivey" which is not my experience with big muffs. I used a B100k pot as per schematic (measures 108k), and when in the middle it measures 53/55 so it should work...

I built a Moon Good Vibes following the good feedback here, but I found it doesn't "vibe" very much except for the last 25% of the depth knob, and also it starts to make a hissing noise that goes with the vibe. I've already reflowed the board, can't see anything blatantly wrong given the low...

I think I got it: I'll try it in the next few days and report back

Some updates on my very old thread: I ended up buying a proper PPCB board, and gutting the old board of EVERYTHING with the help of my trusty Engineer solder sucker (I even managed to recycle 3 out of 4 IC sockets!) I built the PPCB board, the ticking was gone, the sound was great but there was...

Thanks! If I can use your help, I populated a board from PCBGuitarmania (I know, I'm sorry, the kit was cheaper...) and I'm having a hard time figuring out where I should wire the pot This is the board And this is the schematic: Which side of R6 and R3 should I connect? Q2 is a 2n3906 so I...

if I was to add a Null pot to my green ringer build, following the schematic you posted, I'd wire it like this right?: lug 1: r7 middle lug: Q2 emitter lug3: c3 noob question but just getting started into modding some circuits and reading schematics 😬

Maybe you can try here https://dvhx.github.io/what-can-i-build/

I am not an expert myself having only built less than a dozen pedals but I can see several dodgy solder joints in your board. I'd try reflowing the board, maybe look up a couple of soldering tutorials. make sure there are no shorts and look up the several trouble shooting posts about this pedal...

Wired the rate led and ground on the correct lugs and now it's working perfectly 👍🏻 Definitely a recommended mod for those annoyed by the always-on rate led

That ring into the loop

Well I just noticed that I soldered ground and cathode to the wrong pads on the switch 🤦🏻 I haven't had time to fix it yet

So basically how I wired it the first time right? Cathode straight to the middle lug of the 3pdt