Caesar chorus rate LED

[Paradox916]

Quick question for you guys. Is the Caesar chorus rate LED always on when power is applied to the pedal?(Regardless of bypassed or active. (The pedal seems to be operating normally and sounds good.) or did I do something weird In there that’s not obvious.

 

[uberflibs]

I came here looking for the exact same answer.... Mine does the same, but that seems odd to me?

 

[Robert]

Completely normal.

The original behaves the same way. (Isn't this how most Rate indicators work?)

 

[caiofilipini]

Not sure about other makers, but that behavior is consistent with my Walrus Monument v2 tremolo.

 

[Paradox916]

Completely normal.

The original behaves the same way. (Isn't this how most Rate indicators work?)

I didn’t know. First pedal I ever owned that had a rate indicator... one thing is for sure I should have put a slightly dimmer LED In there.... I can’t see the knobs...

 

[caiofilipini]

Yeah, both LEDs on the Monument are blinding!

 

[kurtis1]

Quick question for you guys. Is the Caesar chorus rate LED always on when power is applied to the pedal?(Regardless of bypassed or active. (The pedal seems to be operating normally and sounds good.) or did I do something weird In there that’s not obvious.

My juila always has the rate LED going. Even when the pedal is off.

So it sounds like the Caesar is true to the origional.

 

[sticky1138]

To those who have built it, which LED is the blinking one, assuming you are looking at the pedal from the outside/front? Trying to build one with a single static LED only.

 

[Paradox916]

To those who have built it, which LED is the blinking one, assuming you are looking at the pedal from the outside/front? Trying to build one with a single static LED only.

It’s the one on the left below the rate knob and wave form switch looking at the pedal if it were on your pedal board with the jacks at 12 o’clock.

 

[sticky1138]

Thank you very much!

 

[Locrian99]

If you only connect the anode to the board and run a wire from the cathode to where you wire the sw pad on the board (between the input and output on the switch) it will lose ground when not on and not run. I regret making two led holes in my enclosure usually I just use the rate led for an indicator led as well in all my vero builds this way. But spaced it here.

 

[Feral Feline]

If you only connect the anode to the board and run a wire from the cathode to where you wire the sw pad on the board (between the input and output on the switch) it will lose ground when not on and not run. I regret making two led holes in my enclosure usually I just use the rate led for an indicator led as well in all my vero builds this way. But spaced it here.

That's what I did for my MadBean Wigl, made the rate LED the on/off indicator as well.

I have a small ticking issue with it, but I'm fairly confident it's nothing to do with using the rate LED as bypass; I just haven't bothered to revisit and fix it, 'cause there's too much else to do.

 

[Dan0h]

The always on flashing LEDs drive me crazy too. I have slowly been going through my favorite pedals and swapping them out. And also adding resistor as they are so bright.

 

[Bio77]

I usually skip the rate LEDs on all builds as I also find them annoying even if they are only on when the pedal is engaged. I fail to see their usefulness.

For CLR on the LED I used to put a trim pot to get the LED just right. You have to be careful not to lower the trim too low or the LED will burn out. These days, I find 22k is perfect for a 9V diffuse LED circuit. 4k7 is usually the recommended value, that's always too bright for me.

 

[andare]

You could always put a resistor in series with the trimpot and put the resulting monster where the CLR goes. That'd be one butt ugly but useful mod to any pedal.

 

[Ale_jellybelly]

If you only connect the anode to the board and run a wire from the cathode to where you wire the sw pad on the board (between the input and output on the switch) it will lose ground when not on and not run. I regret making two led holes in my enclosure usually I just use the rate led for an indicator led as well in all my vero builds this way. But spaced it here.

I wired the led cathode to the center lug on the 3pdt and left the sw pad on the board empty but I have a loud pop when I turn it on, and the led is flashing a little bit even when turned on.

So I moved the wire to the SW pad and added a wire from middle lug to SW pad as well but nothing changed.


What am I missing?
maybe it's the switch, it's seen better days but that's what happens when you try to salvage one from a failed build

 

[Locrian99]

I wired the led cathode to the center lug on the 3pdt and left the sw pad on the board empty but I have a loud pop when I turn it on, and the led is flashing a little bit even when turned on.
View attachment 65761
So I moved the wire to the SW pad and added a wire from middle lug to SW pad as well but nothing changed.
View attachment 65763

What am I missing?
maybe it's the switch, it's seen better days but that's what happens when you try to salvage one from a failed build

I’m not sure but you shouldn’t be hooking up the sw pad to anything if you do it how I described.

 

[eh là bas ma]

I guess all Walrus modulation circuits behave the same way, Lillian phaser also have an always-on rate led. I should change the led color and intensity to make it more user friendly.

 

[Ale_jellybelly]

I’m not sure but you shouldn’t be hooking up the sw pad to anything if you do it how I described.

So basically how I wired it the first time right? Cathode straight to the middle lug of the 3pdt

 

[Ale_jellybelly]

I wired the led cathode to the center lug on the 3pdt and left the sw pad on the board empty but I have a loud pop when I turn it on, and the led is flashing a little bit even when turned on.
View attachment 65761
So I moved the wire to the SW pad and added a wire from middle lug to SW pad as well but nothing changed.
View attachment 65763

What am I missing?
maybe it's the switch, it's seen better days but that's what happens when you try to salvage one from a failed build

Well I just noticed that I soldered ground and cathode to the wrong pads on the switch I haven't had time to fix it yet