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@coachseeley - Did you verify all the component values? E.g., I can't read the lettering but Is C2 really 1µF, it looks bigger than that. Also, the colors are a bit hard to read, but is R4 really = 10k?

@Erik S - You are ok, the negative sign is often tossed. E.g., see https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/this-week-on-the-breadboard-animals-diamond-peak-overdrive-with-some-mods-of-course.13466/post-318265

@fuzz - Hmm, the manufacturer could very well be Solitron https://how-to.fandom.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_(chip)_manufacturers_by_their_logos/P-T Maybe you could try asking them https://solitrondevices.com/contact-us/

Here's some pics of threaded inserts I've used. This is a mini-lathe chuck jaw I made with an attachable face (the arc piece at back). On the right you see the back of the jaw, where the threaded inserts are placed. I put screws through the arced face piece and into the threaded inserts - the...

Another way to fit 3D-printed pieces together is with screws and heat-set threaded inserts. E.g., such as these from McMaster-Carr. I use such threaded brass inserts a lot in various jigs that I make for use for woodworking...

@GAStan kindly reached out and made an excellent suggestion, to make a 2-piece design with a base unit which holds the TO-92 transistor plus a hand tool (a.k.a. 'lead former') that bends the outer leads into the correct shape. So here's an attempted design for that. What I haven't done yet is...

Very clever! Yes, as @ozmuth suggests, maybe it's worth lowering the height of the front and side rails for better hand access. But it really is a great idea. And, speaking with regard to my own designs, it always takes me several iterations to get it optimized.

I have a grounding bracelet, but only use it on the coldest driest days of winter, and then only when handling FETs. Otherwise, I don't see the need. And like @GAStan I have a wood-topped workbench that doesn't harbor static, and my chair also doesn't generate static.

Beautiful! The slight roughness on the lower level suggests to me that the raised reflective part is the virgin metal surface. And I could image the surface was made using either laser engraving, or photoresist + chemical etching.

@Feral Feline - so I made a first draft CAD design of a "wire-bending" TO-92 transistor tool, will print it later this week for testing. The basic idea (a.k.a. "hope") is just to press the transistor down into the slots (also pressing down on the leads). We'll see... Front and back views...

Aha, now I know - sincerely oops...

That 8038 sure looks to me like leg #6 is out of the socket...

I agree with trying higher voltage for headroom, but if that doesn't work then another path is to give up input signal by making a unity gain buffer followed by a volume pot. I know it's less than ideal to give up S/N, but it will work. Or perhaps you could follow the buffer by a...

Hopefully @johnk_10 bought them long ago when they were cheaper... (or they're SMD...) Ouch!

These are very cool. I searched for a transistor lead bender on various 3D design sites but couldn't find this. It would be nice if the piece also bent the leads for you, by just pushing the transistor against a set of guides. Hmm, next time I'm working w/ CAD (I use FreeCAD), I'll see if I...

Those negative values are likely resulting from your meter having a small phase error when looking at the impedance, which is overwhelmingly dominated by the huge real resistive component - the imaginary impedance (due to any capacitance and inductance) is tiny by comparison at audio frequencies...

Hmm, certainly not at all aligned with Motorola values - but again accuracy may be questionable

How about Robert's reply in this thread: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/missing-build-docs-schematics.3784/page-78#post-311596

I think this may be what you want: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/ocd-adhd-toans.17007/#post-200331

First re-check all your components, make sure they are the right values + confirm polarities where they exist. Your 2 film caps look fine. But when I tried checking your resistors the colors seemed off/skewed in the pics, so it was hard for me to check them. E.g., R2 (470K) looks like...