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Thank you! I have used panasonic smf caps.

Thank you, you're welcome.

Hi! No, I have no oscillation/squealing problems at all. Do you have build the paragon with or without the charge pump? I tryed a buffered booster pedal in front of my paragon and original KoT also, the amount of hiss was a bit different, that's all.

No, C12 is 22n, not 2n2. The PCB is labled wrong only, see specs..

C1, C12 = 10n R3, R17 = 10K

yes, but I wanted it that way. It could of course have been solved differently. I've already described the omission of the charge pump, the rest corresponds to Analogmans k.o.t. v4 schematic.

Thank's! 1. I've socketed them to test the sound difference to carbon resistors in this position. 2. That means, I soldered the diode directly to the DC jack, not to the pcb.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/383276912515?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 There are different lengths and numbers of connections available.

Many Thanks! Yes, that's right, I'm using a socket for the LED resistor. It's easier to change the brightness if necessary. I got the ribbon cable from ebay. I didn't use single core cable for my off-board connections, but it can be useful.

Thank you!

Thank you! I bought the leds and the reflectors at ebay.

Thanks!

Yes, I did it, but I can't post it here. I can send the schematic via email for personal use only (no distribution or publication).

It will be difficult to find a w25k pot at all, especially for pcb mounting. Alpha (16 mm) offers a w20k (pcb mount vertical), but no c150k (standard solder lugs only). I had a bunch of w20k's, one mesured 22,8k, that was close enough to use. The c150k pot can be modified with wire for pcb mounting.

The unicab pedal has no volume control. The original OmniCabSimDeluxe has a volume control for the headphone output only. It's a recording tool, no real need for a VC. If you need one, just add a pot to the output signal. Try a A-100K, if you can't get the volume down to zero, try a pot with a...

When the solder flows, I always automatically press the soldering tip gently against the component wire. Anyway, I try to avoid the component "boiling" for 3 seconds. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that. To this day, I haven't made any cold solder joints. To be honest, I'd prefer to re-solder...

Yes, but I heat the circuit board contact mainly, not the component. It takes a second for the solder to flow in properly. I'm not looking for the lowest temperature, just for the best work result. As short as possible, but as long as necessary. That's my approach.

It' exactly like that! Well described, that's how I experience it, every time..(y)

Yes, that's why I always keep the soldering process short. Professionally manufactured circuit boards are immersed in a bath of liquid solder. The solder flows better at higher temperatures (just as important as the flux). These are my experiences. I've been working like this for over 10 years...

Thanks! I'm ordering my components mostly from banzaimusic.com in berlin (germany). I enjoy the time building my pedals. For a good result I always take my time.