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It is a Fender 6 string bass like this...

He’s an advanced musician in terms of percussion but somewhat new to the bass.

I’ve been considering this too. That’s the one I was thinking of when I said “Kliche” bass mod. He wants something that sounds punchy, so maybe this would be good for that, although I can see EQ and compression as contributing to punchiness as well. Maybe he just needs more than one. (Haha, and...

The links seem to be working okay for me. Thank you for fixing them.

Thank you for the reply. Very nice to have all the links to the boards. I’ll be going through and checking these out! Thank you.

Great idea. I hadn’t thought of a compressor. I like the preamp idea too.

Haha! Agreed! Tuner is most important. I think he has a tuner though, so technically “second”. I like the compressor idea. I hadn’t thought of that but come to think of it compressor is a must have for bass. I use them all the time on bass in mixing. And come to think of it I have an always-on...

I know he likes indie rock.

I’m wondering what a good “first pedal” or “desert island pedal” for a bass player pedal would be. I’m building a pedal for a friend who plays bass and doesn’t have any pedals yet. I know bass players love the MXR Phase 90. I also know they love fuzz, and overdrive (like maybe a Kliche with the...

The FV-1 wasn’t soldered down completely I guess. I reheated and repositioned it and now it is working. I also removed the jumper. I am getting endless feedback but that may be because of either 1) the crystal got fried by the heat, or 2) the patch isn’t controllable by the potentiometers as is...

Hi. I’ve been trying to figure out how I can use the Arachnid to make a single-patch FV-1 without loading in all of the diodes. Instead of the rotating 8-mode switcher, I hard wired what I believed to be patch zero in the EEPROM bank. I’m new to this so what am I missing? The schematic shows...

That was what I thought but wanted to make sure, especially since I’m working w 2 boards. (But I knew that the grounds link via the dc jack and the center lug on the stomp switch. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.)

I wired this up and later realized I wired the in and out grounds to the wrong jacks. The ground wire for the input jack is wired to the ground lug on the output jack and vice versa. (In other words the grounds are swapped.) Is it worth the effort for me to rewire those grounds or does it even...

What does this mean? “unless you plan to replace components” Are solder bridges rough on components? Is it because of the prolonged heat while making the bridge or more like solder bridges make for a weaker connection which ruins components?

When working with a perf board where the pads are isolated like this (see attached image), is it best to bridge the solder between connecting pads or is it better to bend the leads over and use that wire to make the connection?

(The schematic for the circuit I ended up using.)

Pictures on my new boost pedal build.

I’m getting a clicking noise when the switch is pressed. I don’t know if it is a pop due to cap leakage or something else. I’m using true bypass wiring. I’m using 1M pull down resistors. I’ve read that this is great for battery life but not great for capacitor leakage and unwanted noise and that...

So I stuck to the plan and went with an op amp, but another question comes to mind… am I correct in thinking that an op amp will drain a 9v battery much faster than a single transistor?