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The FV-1 wasn’t soldered down completely I guess. I reheated and repositioned it and now it is working. I also removed the jumper. I am getting endless feedback but that may be because of either 1) the crystal got fried by the heat, or 2) the patch isn’t controllable by the potentiometers as is...

Hi. I’ve been trying to figure out how I can use the Arachnid to make a single-patch FV-1 without loading in all of the diodes. Instead of the rotating 8-mode switcher, I hard wired what I believed to be patch zero in the EEPROM bank. I’m new to this so what am I missing? The schematic shows...

That was what I thought but wanted to make sure, especially since I’m working w 2 boards. (But I knew that the grounds link via the dc jack and the center lug on the stomp switch. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.)

I wired this up and later realized I wired the in and out grounds to the wrong jacks. The ground wire for the input jack is wired to the ground lug on the output jack and vice versa. (In other words the grounds are swapped.) Is it worth the effort for me to rewire those grounds or does it even...

What does this mean? “unless you plan to replace components” Are solder bridges rough on components? Is it because of the prolonged heat while making the bridge or more like solder bridges make for a weaker connection which ruins components?

When working with a perf board where the pads are isolated like this (see attached image), is it best to bridge the solder between connecting pads or is it better to bend the leads over and use that wire to make the connection?

(The schematic for the circuit I ended up using.)

Pictures on my new boost pedal build.

I’m getting a clicking noise when the switch is pressed. I don’t know if it is a pop due to cap leakage or something else. I’m using true bypass wiring. I’m using 1M pull down resistors. I’ve read that this is great for battery life but not great for capacitor leakage and unwanted noise and that...

So I stuck to the plan and went with an op amp, but another question comes to mind… am I correct in thinking that an op amp will drain a 9v battery much faster than a single transistor?

I need a simple and clear one knob boost for a mandolin. I have a stash of TL071 op amps and wondering if you have a PCB that uses that component in a simple, one-knob boost.

I figured it out. The grounded part of the VREF voltage split was isolated due to a severed copper grounding track. So, instead of 4.5V I was at 7V or higher.

I just built a rat on perf board, but when I test it, I get no sound until I pull the power plug out of the unit. When I pull the power cable out of the pedal, I hear the pedal working beautifully for a second or two. What is a common cause of this?

On mouser they have $6 ones and $2 ones. Do you know the difference and if it is worth stretching for the more expensive ones?

What is the best substitute for the LM308?

Having trouble reading this schematic. What is going on with pin 5 here? (Muroidea circuit) Is it going nowhere?

Yeah, I think I was wrong about the Mic Mechanic not having a preamp. Apparently it does. I got confused because the volume is roughly the same if you bypass it even with a dynamic mic. So, it seems like my effect with need a preamp first within the circuit.

What I envision is a pedal with the left side being delay and the right side being reverb. Then, inside, 2 FV1 chips, one for the delay section that then goes into the second one for the reverb section. I was just wondering about the circuit and how I would handle XLR as it has 3 connecting...

I don't think so. What I want is very similar to the TC Helicon Mic Mechanic. I think it is unity gain without a preamp. I know it doesn’t have a volume knob on it. I suppose I could look at the schematic. With the Mic Mechanic, the preamp stage still happens at the mixing board.