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It depends on why it's popping, the most common reason for switch pop is the switch itself. I recommend reading this- https://www.mrblackpedals.com/blogs/straight-jive/6629778-what-really-causes-switch-pop

Another option for using the faceplate as a guide is to buy a set of transfer punches. You can get them from Harbor Freight for like $10 for a set.

It looks like you input and output jacks connections are probably being shorted when you put the cover on. Rotate them slightly so the tabs aren't so close to the opening, the lip on the cover protrudes into the enclosure about 1/8th of an inch.

If it has PCB mounted tube sockets, reflow the solder at every pin on every socket. It is a very common failure point. And it could be the sockets themselves. The old Peavey Classic 30s from the same era will get metal fatigue in the leads from the socket to the PCB and break over time. They're...

Nah, it's your bog standard passive low pass/high cut filter. The internal one is just more of the same in series. It can go lower but both are just 6db per octave subtractive filters. You're not gonna get any more bass, you can get less treble which may translate as more bass, but if you want...

Is there an ETA on the Stringer Overdrive schematic/BOM? I need to order some stuffs and I want to make sure I pick up all the necessary bits I may not have. Thanks. EDIT: I can get by with just pot values and tapers and what devices it uses.

I'm just gonna link to the old geofex article by R.G. Keen because it's what I used to figure out how to convert any pedal with a flip flop to a relay bypass. It's kind of a waste of a microcontroller for something that can be done through simpler means IMO, unless of course you're programming...

Increase the value of the coupling caps (C2, C3) to allow more than just treble frequencies through. You'll get more noticeable difference from the output cap but the input cap will have effect too. It's no different than modding a treble booster, because it is a treble booster.

Yes, that is normal behavior for the circuit in the gated mode.

Try removing C2. If that makes it too bright, just try some values below 1nF till you get what you want.

There's several ways to reduce the bass response of that part of the circuit, some will have a greater effect than others. Changing C9 to a lower value, like .1uF or less will greatly reduce the bass response. Changing C7 to a lower value like .047uF will have a less prominent effect (maybe not...

You're gonna need to check continuity between pin 1 of IC2, R7, C3, and the wiper (pin 2) of the gain control (B1M). If you have connectivity between all of those components, run a bit of wire to the wiper (pin 2) of the gain control (B1M) from the center lug of the switch and you should be in...

You can also download a program called "Electronics Assistant" from electronics2000.co.uk if you're on a windows machine. It's got your basics on how to read resistor bands (literally just point and click the colors and it spits out the answer so it's easy to associate and learn) cap codes and...

You're gonna need to ID pin number 9 to orient the jack to make sure you hook the rest up correctly. Pin 9 should be the eyelet that is near the threaded part and not on the back with the rest of the connections. So with 9 facing up, the pins facing you, top right is 1, down and to the left is...

You need to pin out your jacks to see what is what because neither product you linked to has any sort of datasheet that I can find that would tell us what is switched and how. You need a TRS jack that will at the bare minimum switch the Tip. When nothing is plugged in to the jack, it should have...

Kickass. I wasn't trying to be dismissive, I know you guys have a lot of stuff here and it takes time to sort it all out. Appreciate the quick response.

If you (or anyone else) can post a good quality picture or two of the solder side of the PCB I can trace it out and draw up a schematic. I know PedalPCB will eventually put one in the build docs but there's no telling when that will be.