Greengage Mode Switching

[mikeperez83]

So I recently put together a Greengage with zero problems, sounds great, bypass works great, BUT, switching modes seems very very subtle. I've watched a ton of Plumes video, and it seems to be the case that the modes do introduce very subtle changes. I'm just wondering if this is normal or if I may have a busted switch. Thanks for any feedback!

 

[Vildhjuggah]

It only changes the clipping/distortion/od section (led vs silicon vs opamp), so it'd be most noticeable to see the difference on higher gain settings.
Also if you don't have a multimeter that you can use to check the switch real quick, you should probably get one.

 

[mikeperez83]

I have checked the switch and it was good. I suppose I should try it again on much higher volume, and again, the switch it subtle, there’s no “click” sound when you change modes, it almost sounds like the headroom is different, I was mostly wondering if that is the norm for these guys.

 

[Robert]

Crank the gain all the way up and flip the switch to the left.

The clipping LEDs inside should glow when you play. It might be faint and you might need to turn the lights out to see them.

Now flip the switch to the Center and/or Right position, the LEDs shouldn't glow anymore.

 

[mikeperez83]

Thanks! I’ll give that a try!

 

[mikeperez83]

Thanks! I’ll give that a try!

So, quick check, zero glow from the LEDs, I’m attaching a pic of the clipping section. Unsure if perhaps the LEDs shorted somehow or if they’re in correctly. My experience on the pedal pcb boards are that A(anode) positive and K(cathode) negative. Also going to double check the switch.

 

[mikeperez83]

quick update , the LEDs glow with the multimeter either directly or if I touch the leads for them on the switch, 1 will glow, not both, thats the only position not functioning, sounds the same as the middle position. I'm going to guess I got 2 bad switches in a row, possibly a bad batch.

 

[mikeperez83]

looks like when I had originally pulled the switch, the middle lug took the PCB's internal pad, sooo, either I suppose I need to attempt to re tin the inside the holes for the switch in order for this to work as intended.
update again, re tinned the contacts, new switch, now the pedal is only in the open position, kinda of a real bummer, don't really know what to do. The contacts and pads for the switch were toast, do they only follow traces on one side? If they do, running a little wire or a lead to where they connect from the switches legs should fix the issue?

 

[Dr. Satan]

You're gonna need to check continuity between pin 1 of IC2, R7, C3, and the wiper (pin 2) of the gain control (B1M). If you have connectivity between all of those components, run a bit of wire to the wiper (pin 2) of the gain control (B1M) from the center lug of the switch and you should be in business. Make sure you're using a sufficiently hot iron because if it's too cold, you'll cook switches and PCBs because you're having to hold the iron on them for too long to get them hot. It should only take a second or two to liquefy the solder and make your connection.

 

[mikeperez83]

You're gonna need to check continuity between pin 1 of IC2, R7, C3, and the wiper (pin 2) of the gain control (B1M). If you have connectivity between all of those components, run a bit of wire to the wiper (pin 2) of the gain control (B1M) from the center lug of the switch and you should be in business. Make sure you're using a sufficiently hot iron because if it's too cold, you'll cook switches and PCBs because you're having to hold the iron on them for too long to get them hot. It should only take a second or two to liquefy the solder and make your connection.

I just saw this reply, but that's exactly what i did. then a little hotglue and some leads from the legs, works like a charm. Next time i just need to take my time and be more patient in order to avoid all this extra work, although it was a good lesson in troubleshooting.