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There are a few different revisions. I've personally seen: 1N916A>1N916A 1N750A 1N916A>1N916A 1N916A 1N916A>1N916A>1N916A 1N916A

Pins 1 and 2 are bridged on both sides of the board. There is another trace under your socket. :confused:

It's in the doc. https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Synopsis-PedalPCB.pdf https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate-Salesman.pdf

Done.

There were a couple extra VCC net markers and the VREF supplies weren't connected by an actual line. The first VCC marker didn't have the 1 pin number below it, so I think it gave the impression that there might be more than one VCC net in the schematic. Just a little clutter that didn't get...

There is only one VCC in that schematic, the little "1" subscript below some of them are pin numbers and don't mean a whole lot. There were a few redundant VCC markers in the schematic, I've removed those just to prevent confusion. You may sometimes see markers for VCC or +9V in my...

You have to purposely misbias one mode. Turn em until it sounds bad. :ROFLMAO:

Yes.

That's pretty dang cool looking.

You can find the old build doc here: https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/archived/Carcass.pdf The updated PCB has different trace routing, there were no changes to the circuit or components.

Yep, I used a Power Line for a couple years. I could hear the digital signal in my workbench Princeton amp from time to time. I eventually switched to an Orbi system. It works much better, with wider range and no noise. The Power Line would randomly stop working all the time and seemed to...

Tried blu tak once, never again. Blue painters tape is definitely what you want. Seriously though, I've never used blue tak or tape for PCBs. I just use the flat bench top.

It's a pretty popular pedal / circuit, that's way more noise than normal unless that amp is dimed.

Correction, C9. I was looking at my trace schematic, not the final schematic in the build doc.

Nope, I think you got the right one.

It's getting some upgrades so might be a little while.

Install a jumper in place of R29. IN > FX In S6 > LED control (purple wire in the MIDI module pic above) OUT > FX Out

What software does that use?

Drop C9 down to 10nF and see if you like that better. I've traced two of these, one had 10nF in that spot which makes a little more sense. (Fat mode switching from 10nF -> 110nF)

Exactly.