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Doublecheck the 2.2uF electrolytic capacitors in the middle of the board. The graphic on the landing page shows the silkscreen with the + facing south, but your caps are all installed with the - facing south. But -- the build doc says that all of the capacitors face the same direction with -...

It was a while ago that I set it up, but from what I remember it was really simple. I created a templates directory, then created a project in there like I would create any other project. Then you add a directory called 'meta' and put an "info.html" file in there just with the description...

Also, it's pretty easy to create user templates. (to use them you do File -> New Project From Template). I think you can have schematic as well as PCB templates. I only use the PCB templates. ( I have all of my offboard / power sections as 'Design Blocks' which have already been mentioned )...

In terms of tips and tricks, also take advantage of the 'Design Blocks' feature of the schema editor - get all of your inputs (9v, gnd, etc) laid out how you want, potentially including connectors. Also you can snapshot the common power supply design blocks (power filtering, vref, etc). I find...

The trimmit was born for this :-)

ooooh, or - the stripboard layout assumes C10 @ 33nF is one strip long, but you've got the wima in there that spans 2 strips.

Maybe here? Based on the schematic, if you've got something wrong when tone is cranked clockwise, it implicates C10/R15. If C10 is bridged it turns the RC high-pass filter into an R no-pass filter :-)

+1 to reflow, some cold joints. Ideally you should get some solder to flow through to the other side. (more flux helps this). Do you get any LED blinkage? If the sense LED isn't doing anything, the LFO isn't doing the thing. Did you play with the bias trim at all? I don't remember if it's...

Yeah the build doc has the schematic and that's right, it's straight to ground. Kind of surprising to make the ground protection be a dead short. Most of the time when you design a circuit like that, you want to add a (poly)fuse that would trip. Glad to hear your build is working, it looks neat!

I might try adding some additional capacitors to see if additional filtering helps. You can tack these on to the back side of the PCB using the same pins for testing things out. This probably the order I would try things: - Add a 100nF capacitor in parallel to the input cap, ceramic if you...

What do you measure for voltages on the 556 when it's plugged in? Looks like pin 14 (top right) should measure 9V and pin 7 (bottom left) is ground. Also it looks like the reverse polarity protection in this circuit just creates a short circuit between +9/GND if it's reversed, so I imagine that...

hah, thanks for reminding me why I switched to using PCB mounted jacks in the first place. I'm like 90% sure that you've reversed the polarity. Every damn time I try to solder one of these I have to look up the pinout and I still get it wrong. Not sure which jack is supposed to go in there...

One thing I've done on builds (where I'm designing a new PCB) that have a tiny sweet spot is to use a multi-turn trimpot like the 3296W instead of the 3362P-style. Maybe it'd be neat to design a little breakout board that could go in the footprint of the 3362P to replace it with a multi-turn...

I did run into this today - the UI is confusing, though, and I've probably even used Extended Preferred parts unintentionally in the past without realizing it. I used some 330K resistors that were 'Extended Preferred' and not basic. In the BOM UI, they show up as 'Extended' with no mention of...

BTW are you using extra flux? Especially with lead-free/high-temp solder, the only correct amount of flux is "more". Some extra flux helps solder wick take up the solder much easier. For flux, I really like the Stirri stuff. I don't like the V2/V3, it is stinky, but the ASM stuff doesn't...

truth! Other stuff to stock up on that you'll probably always need (and are cheap in quantity): ICs: I got a big package of these IC sockets, much better quality than the ones I got from Tayda. Diodes - 1N4148 aka 1N914, 1N5817 (in many builds as a reverse polarity protection diode)...

BTW when you say you have continuity, does that mean you're using the continuity tester on your meter (BEEEEEP) or just looking for non-open circuits maybe w/ resistance? I'm still thrown by the continuity between pins 1 and 8 (direct to +9v and GND via C17), 3 (direct to GND), 5 (direct to -9V...

Yikes, pin1 is +9v and pin3 is GND, so you have a short between 9V and ground here. Especially with pin5 also showing continuity, I'd try replacing C18, since C18 connects between pin5 and ground. (Though I'm not 100% sure here since if it really is shorted like that I don't know how anything...

I actually haven't run into anything in that category (yet). It sounds like it's "Extended" parts at "Basic" setup prices based on the FAQ. The tool I was using (Bouni KiCad tools) didn't have a filter for it (that I remember seeing, anyway) so I hadn't really looked at them before. This is...

I think the IC values in this post(linked) are close to where they should be. You should be getting ~17V on pin 8 of IC2 and ~-9V on pin 4. If you check out the schematic you can see that they're connected right to the +18 and -9V from the charge pump and there's not much more that connects...