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if you still have extra ferrite beads, id be happy to buy some off you, or send you some parts you might need! please lmk. hope you have a great holiday season! daniel

That’s awesome. I was using flush cutters (what I use for leads) and then I tried an xacto knife. I hadn’t heard of bypass cutters before, and When I look them up on google the results are mostly looking like pruning shears, like for gardening. That isn’t what you mean, is it?

Thanks so much for your help! On a side note, good job on cutting those sockets for the transistors; I had the same idea but I’m having trouble separating the individual sockets without breaking the plastic casing though. I probably just need a sharper xacto knife.

Thanks! That’s awesome to know. I think I have some SMD caps; I’ll see if I have the size that fits. Do you know what body size you used off the top of your head?. That’s a great hack!

Apologies if this has been answered before, but the BOM for the Duocast calls for 100, 120, and 330 uF electrolytic caps that are rated for at least 35v and also 5mm in size. I normally get Vishay or Panasonic electrolytics, but I can’t find this value/voltage/diameter combo in any brand on...

Man I feel like an idiot. I didn’t even think about that 🤣

Does anyone know where I can find out which type of DPDT switch the Carling and Gorva on/on/on switch are? I know taiway ones are type 2, but I don’t have any of those on hand, so before I ordered I wanted to check out the specs on the stock I have, but I can’t find this info anywhere on the...

I also could use help sourcing this part. If anyone has a heads up where you can get them in the US, holla at me!

Bumping this. I could use the bom/build docs and drill template too if it’s available. Edit: found some info in another thread. Thanks! All I need now is that lnd150 mosfet!

Yea I’m trying to use a c65 for the sea horse and I had to grind down the inside of the for a a bit to squeeze the pcb in there. I’m going to wire it up today to see if it works, but in the future I’m definitely going to check the pcb size before I just assume something made for a 125b will fit.

That’s cool, I have a bunch of NOS Philips BC546Bs; maybe I’ll try those. Do you happen to remember the gain/hFe of the 549Cs you used?

I’m just curious how these two compare to each other, because on the surface they look like the BOM is quite different from each other but they’re both based on the same pedal. I know the Aion claims to be a close/to/direct clone, and the Cheese Monger just says “compare to” so I was wondering...

Is there nothing programmed required for the Leprechaun build then? Does it just tap into stock programming on the FV-1 or something? I’m just curious how the pedal does it’s effect without an EEPROM, and if it’s more analog, what the FV-1 does. Just wanted to know in case I can find FV-1s...

So I’m build a war scythe and I didn’t realize the 1uF caps were supposed to be polarized electrolytic. I have a bunch of 1uF wima film caps; am I able to substitute these, or will it mess with the circuit? Thanks!

The tone sweep sounds great at 22nF!

No you’re right, I have the gain at a500k and the volume is b100k, I was just looking at the board upside down. I thought that may have been in but I rechecked the pot values and I have it right according to the schematic. Thanks for getting back to me.

so i built it with the 22n, because that's what the schem said, wired it up, and the pedal works, but there's very little volume on tap. to get unity volume i'm having to turn the a500k volume pot all the way up. I know it's a low gain pedal, so I wasn't expecting a ton of breakup, but that...

So in the build docs it says c12 is supposed to be a 22n cap, but the pcb says 2n2 in that spot. I'm just wondering which value is correct. thanks!

Any idea when the build docs for the new vibrato will be up?