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I'm in New Zealand so also can't comment on the Tariff situation, but can say, they have literally everything you need, and it's well packed. The only thing is occasionally they can take a while to actually ship, but once it ships it's pretty quick. The upside is, if you think you've forgotten...

Once thing I've done is add SPECIFIC components to my DipTrace library, I have an added LCSC part number so if I ever want something to be assembled I already have a BOM with the proper part numbers ready to go. It also shortcuts my component sourcing as I know I can search for the specific...

This could serve as some inspiration for your input stage. https://www.diyrecordingequipment.com/products/cp5-mic-preamp-with-colour https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0698/2265/files/CP5_1.1_Schematic.pdf What exactly you should do depends on what your signal chain will be. Are you expecting...

I'm willing to bet a BAT46 in series with a 1N4148 will have almost exactly the same curve as the 2D304B / KD203A.

Always taking one for the team.

So the electro caps didn't bump you over to standard?

Yeah, the extended parts costs adds up real quick, I was hoping for myself to get the resistors and caps assembled and then finish off the rest myself, but with C0G not being included as a basic that kind of ruins the idea for my single board ambitions.

I'd love to do a metal can Rat build, if only for the cool factor. My ears definitely won't notice lol.

In Diptrace, I've created custom components, they have the JLC catalogue number as an additional field so at the end I can generate a BOM. I essentially went through all the basics, or preferred extended if necessary, for resistors and caps and created a component for all of them. KiCAD has a...

Nice. Given I just build for myself I usually only need one copy of a board. So with the lack of C0G caps available I think SMD might actually not be worth it and TH will end up cheaper. You can also make boards fit multiple purposes, but then they probably won't share many components so the...

When it comes to Through Hole parts, does it matter which ones you choose? Is it just a case of the very first one has the setup fee then you can choose any through hole parts you want from the LCSC catalogue?

Max voltage for the LT1054 is 15v. I guess what I was trying/hoping to achieve is low drop reverse voltage protection with the first half of @PedalBuilder circuit. And the type of over voltage protection from your circuit where the voltage is limited to a safe max and the circuit doesn't shut...

Is it possible to have the best of both world here? IE something that looks like this? D7 Could be ~13v for instance to protect an LT1054 or similar.

Not yet unfortunately. I'm moving house soon, but I'm keen to try some in some fuzz and maybe cascading overdrive designs.

I would recommend Douglas Self's small signal audio. It has a chapter on gain control. Of interest to you might be this circuit. The voltgages and values could be tweaked for your signal level.

I have nothing against simple circuits per se. The electra is an absolute banger. There's a difference to me when a boutique seller with a lot of overheads is selling a YATS, vs a big corporation with scale production in China doing it. That's my point.

How would you implement over voltage?

I'm open to a DC-DC converter, I guess my question is though, in audio situations, how much better is a regulated vs un-regulated one? The regulated versions seem to add about $10 to the price.

Believe it or not a lot of records around that time were still recorded on tape, and the flanging effect was often achieved by varying the tape speed. See also Sum41's Fat Lip, Tom Lord Algae has explained how he did a similar effect on that record...

What do you think about this? Seems to tick all the boxes?