Search results

Yes, as you said. I have a small pedal board with delay, reverb etc in the loop of an amp that it would be nice if I could have it run into a loop switcher and every amps FX send and return goes into the switcher and I select each amp with a foot switch or whatever as I change amplifiers, that...

I know, I nearly bought this one, was torn, but I have 4 amps and this only did 3, thought I could make some sort of work around. Otherwise then I'm still reaching into the cable mess and unplugging speaker cabs and amp heads. I'm just going to get or make a looper and see what happens with the...

https://delisleguitar.com/shop/de-lisle-amp-speaker-selector-v2/

This is the device. It's a bit budget but it works fine. It only switches the head to the speaker cab, not one of those big expensive ones, I'm just a bedroom basher these days

I recently bought a device that allows me to switch 4 amps with 4 cabinets and any combination. It's great, but now I need a way to be able to share and effects loop pedalboard between the 4 amps. Will an ordinary 4 button pedal board loop switcher work in this scenario or do I need something...

Thanks, I will look at that in the schematic. Tested it out again and it is improved, there is just a small amount of muddyness left that is hard to describe that I don't get with the thermionic and purple distortion (g3) that I would love to get rid of but I'm not sure it's possible.

Generally E standard or drop d. I kind of like the harmonically rich sound of the soldanos, have other pedals for chainsaw sounds. I'll have a look at that, to be honest I don't feel there is a night and day difference with the deep switch, it's different, but not wildly so

Those mods are done and initial testing says it's sounding a bit better, haven't had the chance to really put it through its paces yet. Thanks for your advice. For arguments sake, if I felt like I wanted to tighten up the bass (I know soldanos are kinda known for that big bass) a little, what...

Thanks for the reply. I think my setup must be a little dark to begin with, I have checked the component values several times now because I have never felt like it sounded like it I've seen it in videos, if that can even be accurate. It was one of my earlier builds so I didn't test components...

Yes it is not just brightness, I just didn't know how to explain it but it is a bit loose and muddy and dark, I tend to have the treble right up, presence right up, bass low and mids low. It seems to be a very mid heavy pedal, which I'm sure the amp is probably too thats why the pedal is like...

Hi all, I built a Lead solder a while ago and after living with it for quite a while I think it sounds a bit muddy and could use brightening up. Other people have used it too and felt similar. Don't know if anyone else has had this experience but I thought maybe I should have a go at modding it...

Ok, inspected the socket, it appears ok but I can't see inbetween it and the PCB obviously so I'm not sure if anything is truly wrong. I reflowed the area again, changed out the charge pump chip and gave it a good look over again for the millionth time. It is still the same. I did poke around...

Thank you, I'll get to work. I feel like it will be a pain in the ass to remove a socket if it comes to it!

Yes, I hate those sockets, I tried them on this batch of PCBs and I regret it! I'll never buy them again, I've had similar problems. I was being a tight ass. I've since bought the good ones but I thought I'd use them up. Will check there is nothing wrong with the socket.

Great post, I have re-flowed that area and I replaced a couple of film caps there, but will re-flow again and investigate further. Don't know if the charge pump runs Hot but will check. All it takes is the slightest touch to get it going. Will also try to check for solder bridges at the socket too.

I have tried swapping out the charge pump, I think I have more I'll try again, those voltages were way out. Charge pumps from tayda. I'm not with it now but is c7 the mlcc? From memory I put it in for space, it's a 220nf from memory, tested it before it when in and it was exactly to spec. Code...

Forgot to post pics

I am troubleshooting this frost drive build and its confusing me. It has sound coming through but its weak and splutery (if thats a word). Then if I touch it with my finger on the back of the pcb in the area that I have pointed to in the photo it works as it should for 30 seconds or so. I think...

Had to step away from this for a while, doing my head in. Still high pitched whirring noise but also getting some signal through, will audio probe again when i have time. component values checked again and ok. everything has been reflowed. did have it working outside of box but everytime i put...

If your still working on this issue I have solved my really low output issues. The lone king I put electrolytic capacitors in the PCB instead of tantalums and I'm pretty sure I put in 22uf instead of 220nf which stifled the output. On the other pedal I put a 470nf instead of the 470pf it was...