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Swapped out the suspect MN3207 for the coolaudio v3207d and it works! 2 for 2 problematic MN3207 chips. In retrospect, I should have waited for them to get the V3207D chips back in stock and not took a chance on the "NOS" MN3207.

I will try to put together a demo

Is there a good way to check if the BBD chip is the problem? Or if it is related to the LPG chip? I barely get a sound out of the pedal when mix is at 100%, just a quick pop on the pluck of a string and the sound quickly decays to back to silence. This makes me think there might be issue with...

Where in the circuit did you measure these voltages?

I am seemingly unable to get anything other than distorted audio out of this pedal. Audio passes through fine, mix control works when pedal is on but at full wet it is mostly distorted. I even tried many combinations of trim pot settings for gate and BBD bias. The sound is barely changed only...

With the BBD out of the circuit the voltages are 9V in, 4.95V out. I put in the other MN3207 I had from the same order and the regulator stays cool and still outputs 4.95V. I think it may have been a bad chip. Anything else I should be testing?

The MN3102 clock chip was not for this circuit so it's ok it's ruined. I also didn't put the correct BBD MN3207 in any other socket so that wouldn't be the problem, although I haven't ruled out a bad chip as it is NOS and cabintech says 10% failure rate. I have one more MN3207 to try once I...

Not sure if this helps any but i powered the circuit with the MN3207 removed and the regulator does not heat up anymore. The MN3207 look a little suspicious to me as they appear to be resurfaced on top (rougher texture and sharper top edges). I haven't had issues with cabintech global parts...

Just tried to power on my Low Tide Modulator build for first time and noticed the regulator getting too hot to touch. After some double checking I noticed I had the wrong chip at IC7 (MN3102 clock generator instead of MN3207 BBD). Oops. I swaped it out for the MN3207 and tried to power on but...

Thanks for all the kind words. It was a fun experience and I hope it inspires others to build weird pedals or share their build stories. I hope to find more military parts/control panels in the future and make a small collection of pedals like this one.

That looks awesome! It has a vintage modular synth look to it. A preamp pedal in a green/gray painted enclosure with a vu meter would be a cool homage to that!

Thank you to everyone that helped me along the way by answering questions about your modifications and general circuit design. Also thanks to PedalPCB for making these projects so easy and accessible!

All that was left was to start working on the pedal's internals. I had ordered the Hydra, intelligent bypass relay, and FV-1 clock module pcbs from PedalPCB and had to figure out a solid way of mounting them in the enclosure since I was not direct-soldering the potentiometers and switches as...

I should start by saying this is a really long post. I had never built a guitar pedal before. I have made many other synth-related gadgets and modules (mostly eurorack modular synth stuff) so it was about time I add a DIY pedal to my collection of retail pedals. And why not challenge myself to...

Would a 100% wet signal mod be possible by clipping lug 1 of the mix pot? I think this would allow full dry and wet signals at CCW, and as you turn the mix pot to full CW, you would decrease the dry signal to the point of only the wet signal. If this is possible you could use a DP3T ON-ON-ON...

I swapped out the 10k pot for a 50k pot with a 47k resistor between lugs 1 & 3 to approximate a 24k pot. This allows me to bring the clock speed much lower and, in my testing, the FV-1 remains operational. The sound from the Hydra is significantly more lofi with max delay times around 4...

Looking at the schematic, I am guessing that I want to replace R2 with a lower value in order to decrease the clock rate's lower limit. Am I right to think that at maximum resistance 14k7 (R2 4k7 + FREQ 10k), we get maximum clock speed (pot turned full CW)? So if I put a 5k trimmer pot (wired...

Nice! Yes, I too went with an externally-mounted pot. It is up and running fine but I wondered if i need to change a specific resistor to lower the lower clock speed limit.

How would one modify this circuit to allow a lower clock speed? I want to play around with the lower limit to find the point of bit-crusher-like sounds but not cause it to lock up. In it's stock form it doesn't seem to go low enough to do this.

Thanks! I figured out I made an error and connected the emitter to ground. Once I fixed that, the bias potentiometer works great.