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Never broke a tayda part with 2 exception. The cheap wire cutters and solid core wires.

Monarde is Bergamot or Bee Balm. The plant in the picture could also look like some kind of Thistle, but I think yes it is in fact Corn Flower (Centaurée).

My thought was for what we call "Monarde" in french. We have here at home some nice red double ones... not in flower yet. Tried some beer made of those once and it was good.

My vote goes for Parts Fuzz

I think those are ok, the board is just out and flipped.

And that frequency pot is all soldered now? second row of legs

Mine is also picky around the compressor section I think...

Silly question, but how do you power it ? Mine draws around 250ma.

I'd love to see Candy White

I removet it

It's the Rust-Oleum 2x spray cans from the hardware store. Purple and Clear

So yes, by the schematic the internal connection between pins 8-9 could be bad (if the jumper between 4 and 9 is good)

Well, now that I see it that way, I might have been totally wrong ! So yeah that invalidates a lot of what I said ... and that switch might really be bad.

@BrainDrain Edited : You are right ! 2 and 5 are for the signal to come in and out (of the switch). 3-6 jumper is where the signal is routed when bypassed. 1-4 are the signal going to and back from the circuit. SO, from the IN pad, the signal will go straight to pin 2 of the right side...

Same as @MichaelW here, I built one in a 1590BB and it was squealing like hell. Tried everything to get it to work and could never find the problem. It was my first build, so I could have missed something.

Edited since BrainDrain opened my mind : My guess, check the left side bypass. May be a problem of bad switch. Check continuity between pins 8 and 9 and jumper from 4 to 9. 2-3-5-6 when in bypass... they should all have continuity. Find if the problem is the 3-6 jumper or bad internal...

What is the size of your artwork in "mm" ? From your file information it's oversized at : For a 125B : artboard size 62 x 117mm Yours would be about : 258 x 487mm.

That is so true, thank you for correcting me. I always get a white layer under me color UV prints (if not already printing on a white enclosure). IF I have a part of my design that needs to show as white (pure white), I go for the print white twice option.

I would say, if it's FFFFFF you put it in the White layer, else it go in the color layer. Here is my reasoning. What goes on the white layer is what a normal color printer would not print, so if there is any color pigment it's not white.

Definitely red 2nd from top... but surely no 1.2 gigaohms