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I have a providence stv-1 pedal I'm looking to change the footswitch on because the one it comes with is awful. It came stock with this alpha footswitch. I'm guessing the "M" is momentary? It's a dpdt switch but I'm not sure of the momentary operation pattern I need or if it even needs dpdt...

Thanks a bunch for the ideas all. Plenty of food for thought now :cool:

Hi all, I recently built a muzzle and it works great. I am curious however if anyone else who has built these has come across any mods or tweaks they like to do to the circuit to change the response, feel, gating capabilities etc. While I do enjoy it, I would say my biggest gripe is the...

My first purpose is to split the guitar signal to use 1 out with a side chain (muzzle key and tuner kept out of the main signal chain so to speak) and the other out to the board as usual (overdrive > eq > distortion > etc ) In my little brain, the theory behind both signals being buffered is so...

Hello, I was wondering, is there a way to use the Skeptical buffer to create a buffered splitter? (1 in, 2 out) where both outputs can be buffered?

Omg I figured it out and now I'm confused for a different reason ha. Somehow in my bin of 330nf WIMA caps I had some 3.3nf's I apparently used a 3.3nf in C6 instead of a 330 🥴 so was pretty much full open at all times. Now it's working. I need a drink now, thanks for the assistance guys I...

Yeah the picture colors might be a bit off but R19 is a 10k just measured it. I'll check the other values too. Here's a few more pics

Yup pots good, getting 5.23k. Anything else in the tone block that could be the culprit?

Those joints are good. Reflowed em, same thing

Just finished up an Oasis today. Everything seems to work as it should with the exception of the tone knob. I'm confused if somethings not working right, but basically it seems like there's little to no difference in the sound with the tone pot at 0 or 10. Is the tone supposed to be super...

Yeah I've yet to open them to do any testing. I just know the ones I've gotten from tayda all have a yellow underside and these are clear, but going on Wima's site I do see they use the clear sealing/epoxy/whatever stuff on the bottom as well on some variants.

Just received some Wima caps I ordered from what seems (or seemed?) to be a reputable eBay seller. I know risky, but they had some values I couldn't find elsewhere. They look a bit different as far as the color of the bottom seal and some of the numbering fonts despite all being mks2's. I've...

Edit: ignore me lol

LMS is who they were from 🤷‍♂️ (actually where I get 99% of my off board stuff). But yes hooray for sure for just a bad jack. I've been very lucky I guess thus far to only have problems with jacks and ic's in my 10 or so builds I've completed.

Well got it fixed and working now. Tested all the ic's they were fine. So as was mentioned I checked power. Opted to just replace the whole DC jack and sure enough that was it. It was a lumberg DC jack too. Oh well glad it wasn't something like a single resistor. Thanks a bunch for your help gents!

Blend all the way up, level all the way down and I still have sound in one of the switch positions. Click it again and sound gone. So sound gone must be on.

Will do soon here, thank you standby lol

Yeah it's a standard breakout, not one of the different ones they have for like a kliche or anything. No idea why it has all the extra numbers. I've only ever ordered these: https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/3pdt/ I have extras though should I try another one? LEDs wired right though it's one...

Input/output jacks or power jack itself? If the in/out jacks were the problem wouldn't I at least still get the led powering on? Or could something be grounding out?

So I get just a clean signal passing through to the amp when the pedal is what I believe to be switched on. (led doesn't power on though. tested led before install). Even cranking all the knobs it's still just dead clean. No odd warbling or squealing hissing or buzz either. When I switch the...