SOLVED Acrobat won't pass sound

M

Mr. Strypes

Member
Just finished putting the Acrobat together. It lights up just fine. Testing with a multimeter, I'm getting voltage to all of the ICs. I assumed (and partially still think) there's a grounding issue, but I'm not sure. Of course, it gets power, so maybe not.
I've tried:
- Scraping all the paint away from the enclosure's 1/4" holes so there's bare aluminum touching the CLIFF washers.
- Attaching a ground wire between the CLIFF washers and then attaching that to an external ground.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance! (Love this community!)
 

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@Robert do you recall if both tip pads are routed?
I'm still stuck on a switching jacks, but that only even partially makes sense if both pads aren't routed.
@Mr. Strypes, can you check continuity on the other tip jack pad? The one directly to the left of the red circled one Brett posted.
Also, check both each tip pad vs the cable tip.
And against each, all with cable inserted.
So cable in,
Left tip pad vs each red circle
Left tip vs other cable end tip
Right tip vs other cable end tip
And, for S&G cable end tip and sleeve.


Sidenote. is this an Easter egg?
1000005419.png
I swear those are letters but I can't make it out.
____ on?
 
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jwin615 said:
I'm still stuck on a switching jacks
Click to expand...
You can see in the first image that the trace is routed to the pad that I marked/circled red in the bottom of the board image that was posted. That should be the always connected tip for the jack if we're talking about standard Neutrik NMJ6HCD2 jacks (which is what this board appears to be designed to use).

If red does not have continuity with red, and green does not have continuity with green, one can only assume that the traces were separated somewhere along the way.

1728611240971.png

I promise that I'm not challenging your abilities here @Mr. Strypes, but are you sure you are using your DMM in the correct mode? I only ask because it seems unlikely that both of these traces are damaged unless you've had to do some major surgery and removed the switch or jacks or something at some point.
 
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Brett said:
You can see in the first image that the trace is routed to the pad that I marked/circled red in the bottom of the board image that was posted. That should be the always connected tip for the jack if we're talking about standard Neutrik NMJ6HCD2 jacks (which is what this board appears to be designed to use).

If red does not have continuity with red, and green does not have continuity with green, one can only assume that the traces were separated somewhere along the way.

View attachment 83455

I promise that I'm not challenging your abilities here @Mr. Strypes, but are you sure you are using your DMM in the correct mode? I only ask because it seems unlikely that both of these traces are damaged unless you've had to do some major surgery and removed the switch or jacks or something at some point.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the detailed response, Brett! I'm not insulted by the question about the DMM. Yeah, I'm sure I'm using it in the correct mode. I have other connections on the board where the DMM beeps. I DID the old jacks (I have a previous post about that from a couple of weeks ago). I suppose the traces on both jacks could have been damaged. If that were the case, would I be out of luck, or could I add a jumper between the tips and their respective switch pads?
 
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jwin615 said:
@Robert do you recall if both tip pads are routed?
I'm still stuck on a switching jacks, but that only even partially makes sense if both pads aren't routed.
@Mr. Strypes, can you check continuity on the other tip jack pad? The one directly to the left of the red circled one Brett posted.
Also, check both each tip pad vs the cable tip.
And against each, all with cable inserted.
So cable in,
Left tip pad vs each red circle
Left tip vs other cable end tip
Right tip vs other cable end tip
And, for S&G cable end tip and sleeve.


Sidenote. is this an Easter egg?
View attachment 83454
I swear those are letters but I can't make it out.
____ on?
Click to expand...
LOL! It definitely looks like code of some sort.
As far as the advice, I'll double-check, but I'm relatively confident I have already checked all those points for continuity with no luck. I'll check again and let you know.
 
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Make sure you check the male jack plug tips and sleeves to the red and green circles Brett drew near the jacks on the board in post 29. So the whole cable and the jack. This rules out cables and jacks. I'll sleep better. ;)
A few other sanity check/gotchas, though I doubt many apply at this point...
-resistance check of you DMM probes shorted
-Be certain all cables in use are in good working order.(Try another pedal as the only variable).
-Guitar to in jack. Out to amp, not inverted(more times than I'd like to admit). Though bypass should work if inverted.
-check resistance of input tip and sleeve via cable. Use Mohm(not mohm) setting if meter is autoranging. Same for output. Low R=short
-Voltage check at opamps.
Dual opamp -pin 4 +pin 8
single opamp -pin 4 +pin 7
-with pedal powered, check for DC on in and out tip and sleeve(indicates short)
Check footswitch(es). Center row should have only a few ohms at most resistance between tip and bottom row, position dependent. Top and bottom should be open/no continuity in both positions. Left to right should be open/isolated in at least one position in typical use cases.
 
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Brett said:
Yes, I’d give that a try using insulated wire (so you don’t accidentally short anything) and see if that changes anything for you.
Click to expand...
SOLVED! Yes! That worked! Apparently BOTH traces were damaged when I removed the old jacks. GO FIGURE! I jumpered it like you said, and got sound. Woo-hoo! Thank you!!!
 

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jwin615 said:
I haven't found a schem nor do I have a board. This doesn't have an always on buffer does it? I'm assuming not judging by Brett's ask.
Click to expand...
Thanks, bro! I jumpered both tips to their respective pins and it fired right up. Woo-hoo! Thanks so much for the helpful suggestions!
 

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