SOLVED Aion FX Xenotron help. (Pictures added)

Anthonyj

Member
So, for my third build (second being a seabed delay) I decided to do something stupid and build this. After finishing the build, the vibrato (space) seems to work fine. but the modulation s(time) section doesn't want to do anything). also noticed that the loop doesn't work. I think I Did something backwards.

When I plug the pedal in with nothing on LED 2 is fully lit and LED 4 is blinking the rate changes with the knobs.
With space turned on LED 1 Turns on and pulses, LED 2 starts to pulse, and LED 4 is still blinking.
With Time tuned on LED 3 turns on and LED 4 stops blinking.

Any help would be awesome since I got way over my head on this one lol.
 

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The R26 was the proper 39k but I felt wierd about the resistor slot itself so I replaced it with a new one. There was no difference but jumping the resistor is making it work correctly. I'm not really sure what the issue but it seems to be with that slot. At the point I don't even know if I want to pursue it any harder for fear I'll just break the damn thing.

It was a good experience though since I got to learn better schematic reading and built and used the audio probe.

Here is a picture of what it ended up looking like as I removed the sockets and running test after test.

Also as a side note if your testing a board with a daughter board make sure you put it back on if you remove it, can't tell you how many times I did this and thought it got worse cause there was no mod at all any more lol.
Yeah, that's weird. Could be a bad trace, but at least you figured out where the problem is.
 
By "resistor slot" you mean the pads? What made you feel weird about it?

If you've isolated r26 as the issue, and you've checked the continuity to the other components in both sides of the resistor, and it's showing a broken trace/connection, you could just connect the resistor directly to the other components via jumpers or leads. That would be c13 and the time ring switch pad.
 
When I was testing on the pads seemed like i had to move the probe around to get a reading. But it seems to be working now. I'm gonna re bias the regen and bbd tomorrow and hopefully close this.
 
When I was testing on the pads seemed like i had to move the probe around to get a reading. But it seems to be working now.
Bad trace or bad solder joint. Sometimes it's hard or even impossible to detect, the soldering looks good but the connection isn't right.

Before populating a board, a small offering to the Soldering Spirits might help...
As Jean-Jacques Rousseau used to say : "even if they are busy, we have nothing to loose".

If you post a clear picture of that pad, a fellow forumite will probably see if there is something suspicious.
 
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I didn't like it for a few different reasons.
I don't think Lovetone's Flanger is really meant to be played like a regular flanger, it's more suited for noise and experimental sounds, in my opinion. It's very singular, meant to escape the ordinary flanging sounds.

If you are looking for the best sounding flanger ever, i 'd recommend the A/DA flanger, available at Lectric Fx as "Flintlock Flanger" :


Electro Harmonix Echo Flanger is very interesting too, it would be a great alternative :


Both are complex builds and both have a larger range of different modulated sounds, always musical and usable at every settings. Although, they can also do some weird noises, if they are calibrated to do that.

In my experience, flangers are great but quickly overwhelming and invasive. Choruses are easier to use in most music styles, and more subtle with bass instruments. A few of them have a clean blend control wich is always useful, especialy on bass.
Here are a some good examples :

Delyk's 2nd Choral (Boss CE-2 with bass specs on toggle, and clean blend)
Aion's Lithium (EHX small Clone with clean blend)
PPCB Unison (impressive diy digital modulation, based on Keeley 30ms double tracker)
 
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This is interesting read, I also noticed Space Out / Mono being realy low in volume in regards of the modulation.
I will check later for R26... Using Time Out is perfectly fine.
The only issue I had other than that was the LED4 for Manual which was too bright. Manual only changes the signal when turned at 3 o'clock.
I put a piece of paper in between the LDR and the LED. Now it's usable all the way. But I had to fold it....

IMG_1854.jpeg
:)
 
I bought a kit and already asked which LED was used. I swapped it for a really bright clear LED which made it worse so I known the clear green LED that was provided is too bright but let’s see. I‘m waiting for a feedback and will tinker with other LEDs. Otherwise the paper strip is just perfekt.
 
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