Fingolfen
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About a month ago I'd build a Klon + Bluesbreaker combo pedal with a single I/O and order reverse switch for a friend. I generally prefer the four jack arrangement like on the DuoPhase - so I wanted to try that out as well for my personal version of the pedal.
The Klon side of the board was built as before with a mix of carbon film and metal film resistors. The capacitors below 1uF are all metal film. I used the "early" mix of bipolar and polar electrolytic capacitors for this build. I also hand picked and matched the diodes based on the Tone Geek's recommendation for voltage drop. I generally have to audition about 10-12 diodes to get the two I really want for a Klon build. Fortunately I have other distortion pedal builds that can handle the overflow! The big change this time is I used a brand new daughterboard for the stomp switch. I really hate hand-wiring switches and LEDs where possible, and this combo design required me to do both! So "Steggi" sat down and laid out a really useful daughter board that incorporates a 3PDT switch (it makes it easy to match switches in mixed combo pedals) and allows you to place the LED on either side of the stomp switch without hand wiring! It's all connected to the main board via ribbon cable. Because the Klon typically uses a 2PDT switch, technically the center row of solder lugs isn't used and I didn't actually need to solder them in, but it looks better this way!
The Bluesbreaker side is essentially unchanged from last time - well - if I'm being honest there is one difference. My first run of prototype boards had the potentiometers reversed. The part I normally use for an Alpha potentiometer in EasyEDA needs to be placed on the bottom of the board to have the correct orientation. These were the opposite. I corrected this on my second set of boards, but as this one is my personal prototype, I went ahead and used the validation board.
The wiring is identical to my Big Muff / Power Boost clone - which I originally came across in the PedalPCB DuoPhase. The advantage is that you can have a single in / single out if you want to use the pedal stock. Alternately you can patch the I/O to reverse the order with cables. You can also add an effects loop between the pedals, or you can use the pedals on two totally different effects loops on their own. As always, I'm using heat shrink tubing to insulate the jack connections, and all of the jack connections are made with aviation grade wire.
From the front, the art is exactly the same. This version lacks the knob at the bottom for the order reverse, but that is the main visual difference.
Original blog entry (with more preamble, dino facts, etc.): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/08/an-alternate-brachyceratops-overdrive.html
![Brachy B - 01.jpg Brachy B - 01.jpg](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/80/80747-ad7538981a6b21764a0e0c21f80cdb68.jpg)
The Klon side of the board was built as before with a mix of carbon film and metal film resistors. The capacitors below 1uF are all metal film. I used the "early" mix of bipolar and polar electrolytic capacitors for this build. I also hand picked and matched the diodes based on the Tone Geek's recommendation for voltage drop. I generally have to audition about 10-12 diodes to get the two I really want for a Klon build. Fortunately I have other distortion pedal builds that can handle the overflow! The big change this time is I used a brand new daughterboard for the stomp switch. I really hate hand-wiring switches and LEDs where possible, and this combo design required me to do both! So "Steggi" sat down and laid out a really useful daughter board that incorporates a 3PDT switch (it makes it easy to match switches in mixed combo pedals) and allows you to place the LED on either side of the stomp switch without hand wiring! It's all connected to the main board via ribbon cable. Because the Klon typically uses a 2PDT switch, technically the center row of solder lugs isn't used and I didn't actually need to solder them in, but it looks better this way!
![Brachy B - 02.jpg Brachy B - 02.jpg](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/80/80748-8294b2ae9ba44a5d0052db297a2c9cb1.jpg)
The Bluesbreaker side is essentially unchanged from last time - well - if I'm being honest there is one difference. My first run of prototype boards had the potentiometers reversed. The part I normally use for an Alpha potentiometer in EasyEDA needs to be placed on the bottom of the board to have the correct orientation. These were the opposite. I corrected this on my second set of boards, but as this one is my personal prototype, I went ahead and used the validation board.
![Brachy B - 03.jpg Brachy B - 03.jpg](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/80/80749-9e799f3dae3a32677e36a6a2a1ec1d23.jpg)
The wiring is identical to my Big Muff / Power Boost clone - which I originally came across in the PedalPCB DuoPhase. The advantage is that you can have a single in / single out if you want to use the pedal stock. Alternately you can patch the I/O to reverse the order with cables. You can also add an effects loop between the pedals, or you can use the pedals on two totally different effects loops on their own. As always, I'm using heat shrink tubing to insulate the jack connections, and all of the jack connections are made with aviation grade wire.
![Brachy B - 04.jpg Brachy B - 04.jpg](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/80/80750-8a4b3c6a6f11723604e794c6f8f6fc8f.jpg)
From the front, the art is exactly the same. This version lacks the knob at the bottom for the order reverse, but that is the main visual difference.
Original blog entry (with more preamble, dino facts, etc.): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/08/an-alternate-brachyceratops-overdrive.html