Anyone tried an odd number of clipping diodes in a big muff?

neiltheseal

Active member
Hey all

Has anybody tried using an odd number of clipping diodes in a big muff? For example using 1 diode instead of the clipping pair or 3? If so i'd like to hear if anybody has had experience with something like this.

I have been playing with a 3 pole 3 position rotary switch that I bought by accident and it has given me an idea to try out different clipping options in a big muff that I am planning to build at some point soon. As this gives the option for multiple poles to be connected at once I thought it would be a good idea to try out different clipping configurations.

On pole A I can connect up to 4 diodes for position 1-4 and on positions 5-8, both pole A and B are connected and on positions 9-12 Poles A, B and C are connected. I was thinking something like the following:

Pole A (only diodes below)Pole B (diode below and diode to the left). Opposite direction to pole A and CPole C (all diodes in same row)
1 - Silicon5 - Silicon9 - LED
2 - Germanium6 - Germanium10 - Mosfet
3 - LED7 - LED11 - Mosfet
4 - Mosfet8 - Mosfet12 - Germanium

I was thinking of putting the muff in a big box and doing something like the above for both clipping pairs. I might add some switches to change coupling caps.

Is this a silly idea, or does anyone have suggestions for how this might be improved?
 
As a suggestion, you may want to try removing one of the clipping sections with a switch. Don't forget that a muff has 2 identical clipping sections in series.

IMO, having only 1 diode there will make it sound like a Bazz Fuss. Nothing wrong with it, but it has it's own sound.
 
I’ve tinkered with removing the clipping diodes altogether with a switch it’s a nice (and fairly common) mod.

Check out the raincoat pcb schematic it is basically that with some other small changes.
 
I'd breadboard it and give each diode combo a try to see what you really like.

Then I'd install only the ones I really liked in the full build.


If you're not into breadboarding, you could install sockets on the build and then set up the switch separately with a scrap of socketed vero or perf and still test all the combos and permutations before you settle on which ones you like.

If you only like a few combos, you may end up with a couple of toggles instead of using the rotary — but the rotary has still done its job and well worth the money and can then be used for other experiments or builds.
 
I'd breadboard it and give each diode combo a try to see what you really like.

Then I'd install only the ones I really liked in the full build.


If you're not into breadboarding, you could install sockets on the build and then set up the switch separately with a scrap of socketed vero or perf and still test all the combos and permutations before you settle on which ones you like.

If you only like a few combos, you may end up with a couple of toggles instead of using the rotary — but the rotary has still done its job and well worth the money and can then be used for other experiments or builds.
Thanks. I think this is what I'll do. I do hate breadboarding for some reason so I'll probably go down the vero route.

I have tried a couple of switches to change diodes in a previous muff. Switch between silicon and germanium diodes and silicon and no diodes.

I like the idea of this rotary switch since it can progressivley add up to 3 configurations. Although that doesn't matter if they don't sound good.
 
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