Anyone using a Brother to etch?(Monochrome printer)

Does electrolysis yield better results? i.e. better detail/less pitting?

Or does it just save you having to use/store hazardous chemicals?

Also ‘weeding’ the vinyl (Cricut, et al) can get pretty tedious for more detailed designs, even if the machine is able to cut it.
 
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Just did a few more etches today. Paid a lot closer attention to the time (given the heat outside), pulled them out periodically and gave them a water dunk and light scrubbing with a soft-bristled toothbrush, then back into the etchant as needed.

Much more consistent results:)
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PedalPCB Deflector Reverb/
Rose breasted Grosbeak
IMG_3620.jpeg
BYOC NYC Muff (+ mods)/
Coopers Hawk
IMG_3621.jpeg
Aion Ceres (Sabbra)/
Northern Harrier
 
Just did a few more etches today. Paid a lot closer attention to the time (given the heat outside), pulled them out periodically and gave them a water dunk and light scrubbing with a soft-bristled toothbrush, then back into the etchant as needed.

Much more consistent results:)
View attachment 80303
PedalPCB Deflector Reverb/
Rose breasted Grosbeak
View attachment 80304
BYOC NYC Muff (+ mods)/
Coopers Hawk
View attachment 80305
Aion Ceres (Sabbra)/
Northern Harrier
Those look excellent.
 
Does electrolysis yield better results? i.e. better detail/less pitting?

Or does it just save you having to use/store hazardous chemicals?

Also ‘weeding’ the vinyl (Cricut, et al) can get pretty tedious for more detailed designs, even if the machine is able to cut it.
Nah, it's doing the same thing, truth told. Ripping atoms apart. Tough I find it to be a bit more predictable, personally.

The storing/using/disposing of hazardous chems is what turns me off about acid etching.

The *real* advantage, though, is in being able to reverse the process. Electroplating. Create a recess, switch up your sacrificial anode. It's something that I've been curious about trying recently.

Damn decent point about weeding. Pita. The main advantage would be in consistency of application, though part of the charm of etched enclosures is their rugged imperfections.

I used to etch enclosures outside of a tub of water, with my 30w PSU rigged up in a box with a ammeter. Just clipped the positive lead on my enclosure, coiled up a bit of copper, wrapped it in cotton balls, clipped my negative lead to it, dipped the cotton balls in salt water, and pressed the cotton balls against the enclosure.

Though I had to keep an eye on the ammeter, too much pressure and the resistance drops too low, the current limiting protection on the PSU kicks in. Throwing a load in series that is matched to the PSU power rating is a good way to keep things humming along without affecting speed. There was something oddly satisfying about listening to the sizzle of vaporizing water molecules.

These are two of my electrolysis builds:
 

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Those look excellent.
Thanks!
Hadn’t done much etching in a while, and had gotten a little rusty on some of the finer points. But I’m dialing it back in. I need to take better notes! ;)

Main thing for me (aside from paying attention to outside temps) has been making sure my enclosures are sanded really well in order to get a good transfer. I go up to 2000 or 3000 grit and wet sand to get a really mirror finish.

Then I can iron for about 3 1/2 minutes and get a good transfer pretty consistently.

I did spring for one of those dry irons mentioned earlier in the thread. Does seem to help a bit. And the lack of holes makes it much easier to wipe clean (with a little acetone) if it does start to develop a gunk layer.

Re: electrolysis
I expect to see a gold-plated pedal, tout suite! ;)
 
Thanks!
Hadn’t done much etching in a while, and had gotten a little rusty on some of the finer points. But I’m dialing it back in. I need to take better notes! ;)

Main thing for me (aside from paying attention to outside temps) has been making sure my enclosures are sanded really well in order to get a good transfer. I go up to 2000 or 3000 grit and wet sand to get a really mirror finish.

Then I can iron for about 3 1/2 minutes and get a good transfer pretty consistently.

I did spring for one of those dry irons mentioned earlier in the thread. Does seem to help a bit. And the lack of holes makes it much easier to wipe clean (with a little acetone) if it does start to develop a gunk layer.

Re: electrolysis
I expect to see a gold-plated pedal, tout suite! ;)
Any chance you know about what temp you are heating your iron to? At 3 1/2 minutes, I'm guessing not blazing hot.
The time/temp balance is key but I've yet to see any actual temperatures listed. Just 70% or cotton setting etc. I imagine irons are like toasters. Where two different models at 50% result in 2 varied temps.

I suppose the needed temp isn't going to be universal due to different toner having different melting points too...
 
Any chance you know about what temp you are heating your iron to? At 3 1/2 minutes, I'm guessing not blazing hot.
I’m turning it all the way up actually. Not sure what F° it equates to, but definitely maxed.
Did it the same way with my old iron (trusty thrift store Black and Decker “travel iron” with folding handle!) too.
 
Thanks!
Hadn’t done much etching in a while, and had gotten a little rusty on some of the finer points. But I’m dialing it back in. I need to take better notes! ;)

Main thing for me (aside from paying attention to outside temps) has been making sure my enclosures are sanded really well in order to get a good transfer. I go up to 2000 or 3000 grit and wet sand to get a really mirror finish.

Then I can iron for about 3 1/2 minutes and get a good transfer pretty consistently.

I did spring for one of those dry irons mentioned earlier in the thread. Does seem to help a bit. And the lack of holes makes it much easier to wipe clean (with a little acetone) if it does start to develop a gunk layer.

Re: electrolysis
I expect to see a gold-plated pedal, tout suite! ;)
Every time I've etched I wish I had taken better notes the last time.

I haven't done enclosures, but it seems like temp, pressure, and time are all factors with the iron.

I wonder if one of these could work with a weight sitting on the enclosure:

 
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Nordic mythology inspired etch for a LCFR. Used new Ferric chloride that is much stronger than the eBay junk. I found a glass dish that is the perfect size for 125Bs. I tried to etch with about half an ounce, just to see(and a piece taping 5h2 sides. This resulted in a very uneven etch as the etchant bubbled under the enclosure. Cool if you want something to look rustic but a PITA to sand.
This reverse etch is painted in black with 2x Duplicolor Blue Purple Shift clear coat. It results in a pedal that goes from dark grey to navy. Has sparkle in direct sunlight.

Overall, happy with this one. Progressing.
 
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