Big muff Green Russian Vs Civilian

Edit: reading through your post again, you are correct. Just make sure you have traced the spots on the PCB so you know which pad is which. This is where the sockets come in handy. I'll keep my original response below, just in case you understand too clearly and want to be a bit more confused...

Original response: Center row of the switch is the input. The two outer rows are output. You have to first trace the components on the PCB to know which side the signal enters and which side it exits. Pop some sockets in for those components. The "in" pad of the various components goes to a center lug of the toggle (soldered in place at the switch). Next, the top lug gets one leg of one component, and the bottom lug gets one leg from the other component. The remaining two legs are twisted together, along with another wire, which runs back to the corresponding "out" pad on the PCB.
Great! I would have missed on knowing which pad was the in and which was the out. I will go ahead with the CW/GR toggle build. Thanks for jumping in!
 
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Just to chime in, I recently finished a CW muff but used 470pf instead of 430pf (because I had them). I used 1n4148's for the diodes.

I tested it with 2n5088's, BC549C's, and tried MPSA13's and 18's in Q1 and Q4. All BC549's won hands down. There were no total night and day differences, none of them sounded bad. The BC549 sounded the best overall, especially on bass it is a beast. Think the 2n5088 might be preferable to some on guitar, more 70's rock sound vs something a little heavier and doomier. Honestly pretty similar on guitar, but with bass it was no contest.

Might have to try out some different diodes for the next one.

This article was very helpful:

]https://www.coda-effects.com/2015/11/big-muff-mods-and-tweaks.html
I'll socket the transistors and play with them but it sounds like the BC54's would be good contenders ...
 
Great! I would have missed on knowing which pad was the in and which was the out. I will go ahead with the CW/GR toggle build. Thanks for jumping in!

There’s a gut shot in my build report. You should be able to zoom in and trace my wiring. I could always open it up and tell you, but that would spoil the fun.
 
There’s a gut shot in my build report. You should be able to zoom in and trace my wiring. I could always open it up and tell you, but that would spoil the fun.
I stood looking at the gut shot a couple of time. I'm very confident about R22 wiring. C2, I really feel like the caps on the 4PDT are connected to the right contact eyelet on the PCB so that would assume that the left eyelet is the input connecting to the center lof on the 4PDT. Would I be able to replicate to C6 and C9 safely?

One more thing I noticed is that the left eyelets of the capacitors seem to contact to the 3rd pin of the transistors (Collector). Would that help determine the input/output?

Don't mind about spoiling the fun if you have a chance:ROFLMAO:, there is still going to be plenty!

Build docs: https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/MuffinFuzz.pdf
Coda's post: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/muscovite-muff….7846/
 

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