Brown Betty

LanePw

LanePw

New member
I'm having an issue with no sound when the effect is engaged. The indicator led works as should and I've got sound in bypass. Only L3 inside is lighting up dimly. I double checked the LED orientation on the rest and they're correct and worked on my breadboard after removing to check them.
I'm getting almost 6v on one side and 3v on the other of the one that's working and none on the others. All IC's are getting power. Kind of stumped on this.
 
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Coming along. Letting it dry really well in between bushings so I can see how much is coming off. Using my plastic tweezers to scrape off the residue between the pads also. Ended up having to replace between R12 and D3. Must have damaged the pad when I swapped it and scrubbing it. Lost continuity there. Not changing anything until its thoroughly clean as I can get it being fully populated. First time having this much trouble with a pedal build.
 
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Just an update. I've had no luck with this still. I'm harvesting the switch and jacks for another build (Fuzz Foundry) and I'll have a new Brown Betty board by Saturday according to shipping. I should have an order for parts I was low on after this build to have exactly what the BOM calls for again.
Only thing I can think of to do differently would be to take greater care in cleaning the board as I go, detailed clean before populating the pots, and trace the entire board before beginning anything. Hopefully the second time around will be functional.
I greatly appreciate all of the input and time everyone gave, and I do have some great takeaways from this experience. The old board will be set aside in hopes I'll see something on the second attempt that'll give me that "aaahhaaa" moment and I'll have the first one in working order.
 
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I have tried Isopryl & it has it uses but didn't meet my approval.
I use CRC Automotive Electronic Cleaner Spray Can only.
No scrubbing, Just a quick spray with the extension tube till it drips.
Dries fast, Check for any flux residue, Spray again to be sure.
It works Great for me!

1606403316573.png
 
Last edited:
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Alright!!! Board #2 is complete, and all functionality tests check the good box. Also,a clean PCB is a happy PCB. Only thing I did different is use ceramic capacitors at C8 & 9.
I socketed the L1-4 pads to be able to season those clipping diodes to taste. The reds sound good IMO, and I'm looking forward to trying a few combos. One red and one green is what I understand Marshall uses to get their tone. What would be some other combos or diodes to try out?
20201128_115651.jpg 20201128_120057.jpg 20201128_144704.jpg 20201128_144717.jpg 20201128_144733.jpg
 
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Good to Hear!
1. If it were me, I would have utilized that Empty space up top with the Input & Output Jacks, the 1590BB is already wide enough.
You will be surprised how much Space is lost with Side mounted jacks, even with Mini pedals!
2. Use Machined Pin Op Amp sockets. I have received a few pedals from USA to Australia with this type that you have used & nearly all of them
didn't work when plugged in. I would open them up to see what was going on & the Op Amp would be missing from the Socket.
I have mentioned it a few times on the Forum & you will find nearly all the Builds use the Machined Pin type.
3. A trick with the Sockets for the LED, Transistors, Diodes Legs is to tin with some Solder so they Grip better so they dont fall out.
Once you have decided what you want permantly, Solder at least one Leg so they don't fall out!
You do not have to do this with the machined Op Amp socket. Once there in they are very firm, I have never had an Issue.

Happy Building!
Cheers music6000
 
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music6000 said:
Good to Hear!
1. If it were me, I would have utilized that Empty space up top with the Input & Output Jacks, the 1590BB is already wide enough.
You will be surprised how much Space is lost with Side mounted jacks, even with Mini pedals!
2. Use Machined Pin Op Amp sockets. I have received a few pedals from USA to Australia with this type that you have used & nearly all of them
didn't work when plugged in. I would open them up to see what was going on & the Op Amp would be missing from the Socket.
I have mentioned it a few times on the Forum & you will find nearly all the Builds use the Machined Pin type.
3. A trick with the Sockets for the LED, Transistors, Diodes Legs is to tin with some Solder so they Grip better so they dont fall out.
Once you have decided what you want permantly, Solder at least one Leg so they don't fall out!
You do not have to do this with the machined Op Amp socket. Once there in they are very firm, I have never had an Issue.

Happy Building!
Cheers music6000
Click to expand...
Thank you again for the sage advice. I've got some proper op amp sockets on order now. I did intentionally leave the upper end of the enclosure free to possibly add a toggle allowing me to add a secondary gain stage for L1/2. A different pair of diodes if I find another set that I want to keep. I'm also considering mounting L3/4 to the face of the enclosure. It's cool to watch them as you see the signal pass through IMHO.
It's been a great learning experience for me, and helped me gain back a cautious confidence when the second build fired right up.
 
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music6000 said:
I have tried Isopryl & it has it uses but didn't meet my approval.
I use CRC Automotive Electronic Cleaner Spray Can only.
No scrubbing, Just a quick spray with the extension tube till it drips.
Dries fast, Check for any flux residue, Spray again to be sure.
It works Great for me!

View attachment 7994
Click to expand...

Is this basically the same thing in different packaging?

 
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Hi, I'm having the same issue. No audio when engaged.
Led4 lights up when the trim pot is fully counter-clockwise.
Led3 lights up when turned 1/4 turn - fully clockwise.
Audio up to IC2 pin 2 and 7 then nothing after that. R14 tested great but no audio on the left side of it. No audio at C9.
Replaced IC2 with same results. 20220518_194855.jpg
 
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Another tip on flux is to use a water soluble flux. I use Chip Quik flux. It's a bit messy but is pretty easy to clean up with alcohol and some non-static towels. Could also use distilled water to wash the boards. I use cheap small paint brushes to dab on a bit of flux to the places I'm soldering. Great stuff! :)
 
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Loxton said:
Hi, I'm having the same issue. No audio when engaged.
Led4 lights up when the trim pot is fully counter-clockwise.
Led3 lights up when turned 1/4 turn - fully clockwise.
Audio up to IC2 pin 2 and 7 then nothing after that. R14 tested great but no audio on the left side of it. No audio at C9.
Replaced IC2 with same results.
Click to expand...

I suspect either R14 or the trimmer are not connected, OR something is shorted to IC2-2.

Clean the board thoroughly to get rid of flux residue.
Show us the back side of the board. With the BASS pot bent out of the way.

Next time start a new thread.
 
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