Buddy’s Box ‘o Metal

@Harry Klippton it sounds wrong. I loooove me some good chainsaw action (although tbh it's a sweet one trick pony). It almost sounds like someone engaged a bad fuzz pedal right before the EQ section. I'll also need to check all my solder joints to be safe.
 
I made a mistake with one of the two I built. It sounded awful. I had used mlcc caps, and one was seated a little too good, so the dipped part of the leg was contacting the pad. I think it was C6. The distortion knob was sounding off . You know what you're doing, so I'm sure you'll find the cause
 
You know what you're doing, so I'm sure you'll find the cause
I only THINK I know what I'm doing, LOL. Nowadays when I put a board or circuit together I try to exhaust every troubleshooting trick I know before reaching out to everyone here. Either way I need to be careful swapping out parts otherwise I'll fry the board. Not the end of the world if that does happen since 95% of the parts I can get from Tayda.
 
Took some time this morning to swap out the tantalums for the box ones even though they wouldn't be flush on the board. Swapping out components on a finished board is a real PITA. Took me a half hour to do 3 components (including removing the circuits from the enclosure). The result? The Swedish Chainsaaaaaw sound!

What lesson did I learn here? Be 100% confident with any mods or changes to the circuit before committing it to solder.
 
I'll post a pic in a moment, but I'm having an issue. I had some knobs lying around and threw them on, but didn't 100% care for them. I pulled the trigger on an order from GuitarPedalParts and it arrived today. One of the knobs is missing the hex screw. Sigh. This was my first time ordering from them. Do you think they would make good on this if I reach out to them? If I send an email now they're not going to respond until Tuesday at the minimum due to the holiday.
 
Damn, a whole month has gone by with this project.

I reached out to GuitarPedalParts and explained my issue (missing screw). They came back saying they do a QA inspection before any order is shipped without exception and asked me to confirm if the internal or external packaging was damaged. It wasn't. They offered a refund or to send the replacement with my next order. I was half expecting what Tayda did when I received a broken part (sent a new one and they ate the shipping cost), but sadly they did not and I requested a refund. Oh well. I've got 3 other knobs that work.

Then @jjjimi84 had a recent post explaining his painting experience and inspired me to experiment with crackle paint. Got the Montana one from Amazon but was hesitant for a while since a single can is $15. I ordered it and tested it a few times with different paint underneath on a botched enclosure I had laying around. For the effect I wanted it worked on the test box.

Trying it for real this time using the same technique but different paint (rustoleum) I was not successful. Primed it and let it fully cure for a few days. Put one coat of color on and let it sit for about 24 hours. Then the second coat and let it sit for an hour before trying the crackle on top. This was the result I had. You can see the crackle effect partially worked, but I wanted it throughout the whole enclosure. So, this morning I sanded off the black as much as I could and put 2 coats of the green on and will let it sit until tomorrow morning. I'll try the crackle paint on fully cured paint and see if that does anything.

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I’d suggest sticking with the same brand to ensure chemical compatibility. Montana makes great products. The gold series is low flow—I strongly recommend it over the black series for painting enclosures. You’re able to get consistent thin layers.

Also, you can probably find Montana significantly cheaper at a local brick and mortar arts supply store than Amazon.

NB: there are two ‘Montana’ spray paint companies. The Montana from Germany is the one I’m talking about here. The Montana from Spain (stylized as ‘MTN’) is primarily geared toward graffiti and not recommended for pedals.
 
Took some time this morning to swap out the tantalums for the box ones even though they wouldn't be flush on the board. Swapping out components on a finished board is a real PITA. Took me a half hour to do 3 components (including removing the circuits from the enclosure). The result? The Swedish Chainsaaaaaw sound!

What lesson did I learn here? Be 100% confident with any mods or changes to the circuit before committing it to solder.
Excellent point.
 
I’d suggest sticking with the same brand to ensure chemical compatibility. Montana makes great products. The gold series is low flow—I strongly recommend it over the black series for painting enclosures. You’re able to get consistent thin layers.

Also, you can probably find Montana significantly cheaper at a local brick and mortar arts supply store than Amazon.

NB: there are two ‘Montana’ spray paint companies. The Montana from Germany is the one I’m talking about here. The Montana from Spain (stylized as ‘MTN’) is primarily geared toward graffiti and not recommended for pedals.
The thing is, I tried it with Rustoleum and it worked pretty good. I had a bit left in one of the metallic series so i tried that out.

If the crackle effect doesn't work I may just bite the bullet and order a can of the regular Montana stuff to ensure it works.
 
If you're experiencing crackling on the edges, but not in the middle, my guess would be that the application was too thick. This effect is a little weird because it does interact with the dry/cure time of the substrate.
 
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Here is my most recent failure with crackle paint. It does not like fluorescent pink at all, this is the second attempt, the pink is shot through the airbrush. First attempt the paint wasn’t dry enough the second was dried for 24 hours but it didn’t have the adhesion needed. I bought the brightest pink spray can i could find and it turned out to be a lovely shade of vulva pink but not the hot pink i need. Back to the drawing board.

@BuddytheReow this looks like a similar problem. The other three enclosures had the paint setting in them for at least a week before i hit them with the crackle. I am also considering laying the base color coat then a coat of clear then the crackle then another coat of clear.
 
Went a little lighter this time on the crackle paint and the same problem still happens. Sigh....I'll try one more time, but this time putting the crackle on a fully cured base coat. If this doesn't work I'll nix this entirely and just hand paint it.

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Third times the charm!!

The secret I found out was not to wait too long for the base coat to dry. I waited 15 minutes then sprayed the crackle.

My question to you guys now. Should I keep this as is or put some labels on the knobs? They would be painted of course.
 

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