Capacitor Question for The Abyss

[soothsayer86]

Hey everyone, love the community here! You guys have been helpful as I have started my journey into building my own pedals. So thanks! Quick question: Tayda left out some 4.7nF caps from my order. I am building The Abyss, and I am wondering if I could replace the 4.7nF with a 2.2nF or some other cap that I have in stock. I guess my real question is, if I do that, would the pedal just not work? Would it destroy the rest of the components? I have really no idea where to start figuring this out on my own so if someone could help out that would be great! I will make sure to get some more 4.7nF's in my next order, that is for sure! Anyways, any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Harris

::Edited to correct my numbers::

 

[Nostradoomus]

Do you mean the 47uf caps?

 

[soothsayer86]

Do you mean the 47uf caps?

Sorry, I meant the 4.7nF caps. My bad. I am confusing myself. I need to know if I can sub something for the 4.7nF cap. Like I said, just getting started building. I appreciate any help.

 

[Cucurbitam0schata]

This might not be the right answer - but you could use some spare caps in series or parallel to achieve a close equivalent to that missing 4.7 nF capacitor? Here's a slick calculator.

 

[soothsayer86]

This might not be the right answer - but you could use some spare caps in series or parallel to achieve a close equivalent to that missing 4.7 nF capacitor? Here's a slick calculator.

Yeah I was kinda thinking I might be able to do something like this, problem is I have no experience improvising a solution that way.

 

[soothsayer86]

For example I have a few 2.2nF caps, but not sure how I would implement those to get close to the 4.7nF.

 

[Nostradoomus]

If you solder the legs of one 2.2nf cap to another 2.2nf cap in parallel then you’ll have a 4.4nf cap which will be close enough. Here’s a shitty drawing

 

[Cucurbitam0schata]

Is that some A+++ toilet paper art!? Frame it!

 

[Nostradoomus]

Is that some A+++ toilet paper art!? Frame it!

 

[soothsayer86]

If you solder the legs of one 2.2nf cap to another 2.2nf cap in parallel then you’ll have a 4.4nf cap which will be close enough. Here’s a shitty drawing View attachment 4260

This is amazing help, and AMAZING ART! It literally shows me exactly what I need to know! Thank you so, SO much! Genuinely!

 

[Barry]

R27 is the CLR for the LED if you're using a 5mm led 2k2 should be fine, or any value in between will just make it brighter, R23 probably should be closer 4k7

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Just put in a 2.2nF cap until you get a 4.7nF. It will be plenty close. There is nothing magic about those cap values, they just need to be scattered. Unless you're trying to build an exact duplicate of the Uni-Vibe, which this isn't, the absolute cap values aren't that important.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Is that some A+++ toilet paper art!? Frame it!

I get it, it's a pun. Shitty dwg so you use toilet paper... ?

 

[BurntFingers]

Just put in a 2.2nF cap until you get a 4.7nF. It will be plenty close. There is nothing magic about those cap values, they just need to be scattered. Unless you're trying to build an exact duplicate of the Uni-Vibe, which this isn't, the absolute cap values aren't that important.

I hereby dub thee Sherlock Ohms.

 

[soothsayer86]

Thanks everyone! Love this community

 

[soothsayer86]

Just put in a 2.2nF cap until you get a 4.7nF. It will be plenty close. There is nothing magic about those cap values, they just need to be scattered. Unless you're trying to build an exact duplicate of the Uni-Vibe, which this isn't, the absolute cap values aren't that important.

Just for my own edification, what does this cap (the 4.7nF) actually do in this circuit? I am trying to learn as much as I can, and part of that is understanding which parts are integral to the design and which parts are less "important".