Hey friends, I’m building my 2nd cataclysm delay (first one is great) however when I turn this one on there’s a crazy oscillating-esque squeal. You can still faintly hear the delays under it, but it is super noisy. I checked all my resistor values, checked my solder points (I think I got them all). Swapped out the chips with the ones from my first pedal, and the problem persists. Would really appreciate a second pair of eyes on this. Thanks!
Cataclysm Delay Squeal.
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Jovi Bon Kenobi
Well-known member
Couple questions...
1. What iron are you using? Does it have a temperature setting? If so, what temp?
2. What tip is on the iron?
2. What solder diameter and type are you using? 60/40, 63/37, etc...
Reason I ask is because I'm seeing a lot of what looks like cold solder joints as well as the fact that solder is not running through to both sides of the board... specifically, I've never had solder not run through the larger pads that pots go in. IDK, seems weird. Also, it's highly recommend to wash the side of the board the leads come out of with isopropyl alcohol. It can make what looks like a cold joint look correct if it's been cleaned.
1. What iron are you using? Does it have a temperature setting? If so, what temp?
2. What tip is on the iron?
2. What solder diameter and type are you using? 60/40, 63/37, etc...
Reason I ask is because I'm seeing a lot of what looks like cold solder joints as well as the fact that solder is not running through to both sides of the board... specifically, I've never had solder not run through the larger pads that pots go in. IDK, seems weird. Also, it's highly recommend to wash the side of the board the leads come out of with isopropyl alcohol. It can make what looks like a cold joint look correct if it's been cleaned.
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
Also aside from Jovi’s good tips, trim your wiring down to only what is necessary to get from A to B.
I’m using my Weller soldering iron. I’ve used it for a few other pedals and haven’t had a problem. There’s no temperature control, but I may have been going too quick the first time, and not allowing the solder to flow all the way through.
I went through and reflowed solder on the joints where it seems like it didn’t go all the way through. The oscillation continues. Even when I turn it on with nothing in the input it just sounds like a siren. Is there a chance one of the components is bad?
the pots are all working, and when you move the delay and feedback it does the spaceship sounds most delays do. I just can’t figure out what would be causing this siren sound as soon as it’s turned on.
I went through and reflowed solder on the joints where it seems like it didn’t go all the way through. The oscillation continues. Even when I turn it on with nothing in the input it just sounds like a siren. Is there a chance one of the components is bad?
the pots are all working, and when you move the delay and feedback it does the spaceship sounds most delays do. I just can’t figure out what would be causing this siren sound as soon as it’s turned on.
Jovi Bon Kenobi
Well-known member
Cool, I don't have the technical know-how to help debug anything but the only thing I can suggest is to try to work on getting smooth shiny peaks on all pads.
Without knowing what you used, here's a few cents worth of info I picked up that has improved my consistency...If any joint/pad ever looks dull, which I see a lot of in the photo, there's a chance that it could be a cold joint. I also have a Weller (wes51) and set it to ~725F. Maybe check what temp yours operates at? The working end of the tips should always be shiny and clean. If it is matte grey, crusty, dull, and/or you can't get it clean and shiny you need new tips. I use the utra-fine point chisel tip and clean it on a brass scrubbie after every component soldered. Not sure what you clean your tip with but if it's a wet sponge you should definitely switch to the brass scrubbie. The sponge cools down your tip considerably and since you don't have a way of seeing the temp go back up to ideal range, that just means you have to wait longer for it to come back up between each cleaning and/or you could be using your iron out of ideal temp range.
I recommend .8mm dia 60/40 flux core solder (though I currently use 63/37 no clean because it is less fluxy). Never add solder directly to the tip and then solder. Rather, always heat up the pad and lead simultaneously for a second before adding solder to the iron so that it instantly melts onto both then remove the iron. I use a flux pen on every connection, but that is considered by many to be overkill. Why I like it is simply that it makes solder flow faster and cleaner so I can get in and out without worrying if I'm over heating anything. You don't need it, but consider it if you've never used one. Definitely get a flux-pen to at least flux your stranded wire and pre tin it before inserting it into the pads. Without flux, it's a little tricker to get the solder to flow all the way through exposed stranded wire. Yours unwound a bit which can cause premature weakening or the bunched up/loose strands can jump pads.
Definitely clean the bottom of your boards with 99% isopropyl alcohol after all components get soldered in, because if you don't someone will always say to do so if you post new stuff in troubleshooting. I kid, sort of...really though, it gives us a much clearer idea of what's happening down below. Check out figures 16 to 19 from this thread to see what I mean https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/basic-workflow-tips-for-building-a-pedalpcb.1165/
Excuse the rambling and forgive me if this is stuff you already do, just trying to get those joints to where they should be.
Without knowing what you used, here's a few cents worth of info I picked up that has improved my consistency...If any joint/pad ever looks dull, which I see a lot of in the photo, there's a chance that it could be a cold joint. I also have a Weller (wes51) and set it to ~725F. Maybe check what temp yours operates at? The working end of the tips should always be shiny and clean. If it is matte grey, crusty, dull, and/or you can't get it clean and shiny you need new tips. I use the utra-fine point chisel tip and clean it on a brass scrubbie after every component soldered. Not sure what you clean your tip with but if it's a wet sponge you should definitely switch to the brass scrubbie. The sponge cools down your tip considerably and since you don't have a way of seeing the temp go back up to ideal range, that just means you have to wait longer for it to come back up between each cleaning and/or you could be using your iron out of ideal temp range.
I recommend .8mm dia 60/40 flux core solder (though I currently use 63/37 no clean because it is less fluxy). Never add solder directly to the tip and then solder. Rather, always heat up the pad and lead simultaneously for a second before adding solder to the iron so that it instantly melts onto both then remove the iron. I use a flux pen on every connection, but that is considered by many to be overkill. Why I like it is simply that it makes solder flow faster and cleaner so I can get in and out without worrying if I'm over heating anything. You don't need it, but consider it if you've never used one. Definitely get a flux-pen to at least flux your stranded wire and pre tin it before inserting it into the pads. Without flux, it's a little tricker to get the solder to flow all the way through exposed stranded wire. Yours unwound a bit which can cause premature weakening or the bunched up/loose strands can jump pads.
Definitely clean the bottom of your boards with 99% isopropyl alcohol after all components get soldered in, because if you don't someone will always say to do so if you post new stuff in troubleshooting. I kid, sort of...really though, it gives us a much clearer idea of what's happening down below. Check out figures 16 to 19 from this thread to see what I mean https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/basic-workflow-tips-for-building-a-pedalpcb.1165/
Excuse the rambling and forgive me if this is stuff you already do, just trying to get those joints to where they should be.
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