What do you mean, a "proper 3 pin"?
I would ...
A) take everything out of the enclosure
B) CLEAN & Inspect every solder joint for cold-joints/cracks/etc and reflow the solder making sure to heat the component leg AND the pad of the PCB. Post a pic of the backside of the board.
Connections can "look solid" and yet be anything but. It's easy to overheat transistors, ICs and even 3PDTs...
C) remove the 3PDT and try a different one, being extra cautious to not overheat any of the new 3PDT's lugs, lots of time for cooling between soldering next lug. This would also be good time to practice getting a tidier wire-attachment without all the frayed bits. I'd check some other build reports such as those by MichaelW or Guardians of the Analog, try to emulate their wiring/solder-joints.
D) Inspect under the ICs for loose fragments of wire/solder/conductive material that could short out. Possibly even take them out (careful with the heat, I have a good high-volume solder-sucker, one leg at a time, wait for the IC to cool before tackling the next leg — solder in chip-sockets.
E) Signal trace the circuit, find out exactly where the signal becomes lost
F) Make sure the circuit works before putting it back in the enclosure
G) If still not working, I'd set it aside and build some simple single-transistor boosts and fuzzes to up my soldering game, get some more experience with building and trouble-shooting these simpler circuits — then come back to this build at a later date for a Phoenix attempt.