falco_femoralis
New member
I don't normally post my builds here but I remembered to take pics of this one!
Starting here with the footswitch, I've painted the enclosure and drilled all the holes
The 1590G enclosure is shallower than the others and I have to trim the poles of the footswitch so it will fit
I mount the footswitch and solder in the daugherboard and start populating the wires. I tin each one to make this easier. I use 26ga stranded for this stuff.
Temporarily installing the input jack to see how long to make the input wire. There is so much temp fitting for these builds
Here's the circuit board. I had to mount the pot on top of the board and bend it over. There is an elec cap underneath. I also had to notch one corner where there are no traces. After this I reflowed the pot's solder and checked for continuity to the board.
Here you can see the elecrolytic cap
Got all the wires onto the board. I off boarded one of the pots and use 22ga wire for that
Got all the yellow wires connected and I'm beginning to test fit the other wires.
Here I'm hot gluing the LED. I put a small dab under the housing to hold it in place. A 3mm LED fits perfectly in the 45 degree notch of this style audio jack. At this point the input jack is connected and in for good.
And I follow up with a dab here as well
Then I connect the LED to the board with good old soldering flux and heat shrink.
Mocking it up with the output jack and off board pot to get a sense for how long to make the neg lead for the LED as well as the pos output wire
At this point I've connected both wires of the output jack so I can hot glue the other leg of the LED. Holding it in place for an eternity
This was fun. This was the only way to orient the power jack because of the close vicinity of the volume pot and it meant soldering this guy was a good old time
In the home stretch now. Everything is connected except the off board pot, and I've routed the wires in such a way to make disassembly of the board not difficult should the need for troubleshooting arise.
I didn't have a pot with solder lugs so I made a PCB one work. I tinned the end of the wires and bent them into a hook to make it easier to hold them into place when soldering.
That's all the wires! Finally!
And it's in. I touched up a few placed with hot glue, such as the back of the footswitch and the leads off the off board pot. Anything that might short out.
Testing it out for the first time
Here's a weird one - with power off the LED stays lit. It's much dimmer in real life, the camera makes it look brighter than it is. The pedal sounds good so I'm not concerned about troubleshooting, but I would like to know the reason. I also had this happen when I built a Low Tide Modulator, in which I also used a green LED.
El fin. I tap threads into the hole for the amp jewel so it just screws right in
Some other 1590G's I've made. They're all either boosts, fuzzes, or distortions. For the finishes, I start with a bonding primer and then I like to use acrylic hand paints followed by hvlp water based poly. I've tried a couple metallic spray paints as well, also with the poly clear coat. I'm very happy with the durability and quality of finish.
Starting here with the footswitch, I've painted the enclosure and drilled all the holes
The 1590G enclosure is shallower than the others and I have to trim the poles of the footswitch so it will fit
I mount the footswitch and solder in the daugherboard and start populating the wires. I tin each one to make this easier. I use 26ga stranded for this stuff.
Temporarily installing the input jack to see how long to make the input wire. There is so much temp fitting for these builds
Here's the circuit board. I had to mount the pot on top of the board and bend it over. There is an elec cap underneath. I also had to notch one corner where there are no traces. After this I reflowed the pot's solder and checked for continuity to the board.
Here you can see the elecrolytic cap
Got all the wires onto the board. I off boarded one of the pots and use 22ga wire for that
Got all the yellow wires connected and I'm beginning to test fit the other wires.
Here I'm hot gluing the LED. I put a small dab under the housing to hold it in place. A 3mm LED fits perfectly in the 45 degree notch of this style audio jack. At this point the input jack is connected and in for good.
And I follow up with a dab here as well
Then I connect the LED to the board with good old soldering flux and heat shrink.
Mocking it up with the output jack and off board pot to get a sense for how long to make the neg lead for the LED as well as the pos output wire
At this point I've connected both wires of the output jack so I can hot glue the other leg of the LED. Holding it in place for an eternity
This was fun. This was the only way to orient the power jack because of the close vicinity of the volume pot and it meant soldering this guy was a good old time
In the home stretch now. Everything is connected except the off board pot, and I've routed the wires in such a way to make disassembly of the board not difficult should the need for troubleshooting arise.
I didn't have a pot with solder lugs so I made a PCB one work. I tinned the end of the wires and bent them into a hook to make it easier to hold them into place when soldering.
That's all the wires! Finally!
And it's in. I touched up a few placed with hot glue, such as the back of the footswitch and the leads off the off board pot. Anything that might short out.
Testing it out for the first time
Here's a weird one - with power off the LED stays lit. It's much dimmer in real life, the camera makes it look brighter than it is. The pedal sounds good so I'm not concerned about troubleshooting, but I would like to know the reason. I also had this happen when I built a Low Tide Modulator, in which I also used a green LED.
El fin. I tap threads into the hole for the amp jewel so it just screws right in
Some other 1590G's I've made. They're all either boosts, fuzzes, or distortions. For the finishes, I start with a bonding primer and then I like to use acrylic hand paints followed by hvlp water based poly. I've tried a couple metallic spray paints as well, also with the poly clear coat. I'm very happy with the durability and quality of finish.
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