Do you prefer lead or lead-free solder?

[jdduffield]

Do you prefer lead or lead-free solder? I’ve been using 60/40 for the PCB pads and lead-free for the hardware. (Two separate irons too so they don’t cross-contaminate.) I was at Home Depot getting more of the larger solder and noticed they also had 60/40 lead solder in that size. I wasn’t sure which to get but went with lead-free again since it is what I’m used to and since my setup is already in place for it. Wondering if that is good, bad, or if it simply doesn’t matter.

 

[KreoPensas]

Years ago, I was at the fabled Crash Space in Culver City. I was attempting to solder with a brand new roll of lead free solder I bought. It wasn't having it.

Tod Kurt ( yup, the one you might have heard of ) said to me "Friends don't let friends use lead free solder" and gave me my first pound of Kester. ( Free lead solder )



Warning: This is about as unstable a topic as discussing computer operating systems.

 

[jdduffield]

Years ago, I was at the fabled Crash Space in Culver City. I was attempting to solder with a brand new roll of lead free solder I bought. It wasn't having it.

Tod Kurt ( yup, the one you might have heard of ) said to me "Friends don't let friends use lead free solder" and gave me my first pound of Kester. ( Free lead solder )



Warning: This is about as unstable a topic as discussing computer operating systems.

I may have to return my purchase for the lead stuff.

 

[Robert]

If you've been using lead-free solder without issues there's no reason to stop now.

 

[KreoPensas]

If anyone is unclear, don't eat either kind.

Just sayin'.

 

[jdduffield]

If anyone is unclear, don't eat either kind.

Just sayin'.

I was wondering if it is ok to sell pedals w lead. I think in Europe it is banned but not sure about small runs and boutique builds.

 

[jdduffield]

If you've been using lead-free solder without issues there's no reason to stop now.

I use a separate iron w a flat tip and run it hotter which seems to help. I use the thicker solder on hardware wiring and the tiny stuff (0.6mm) on the board.

I’d change up what I’m doing if it would be best long-term. Wondering if the electrical connection is as good. I’d “think” the lead-free stuff would be just fine or they wouldn’t sell it.

 

[GAStan]

I've been using leaded solder for nearly 40 years and am just too stubborn to change!

 

[jdduffield]

I've been using leaded solder for nearly 40 years and am just too stubborn to change!

I’ve read that workability is a big factor. I have noticed that compared to leaded, the lead-free stuff flows much quicker, like water almost, once it gets going, but takes more heat to get it to convert to a liquid. That makes it difficult to keep from bulging on the side of gravity. It also makes it hard to know and control how much to use.

I wonder if most people just stick with what they learned on. It seems like in terms of connectivity, it’s “six in one, half a dozen in the other”.

 

[Stickman393]

Its a bit...well...

Each has advantages. I was using K100LD lead free for a while. That's probably about as good as one can do in lead-free in my experience.

The higher melting point isn't so much of an issue for the solder or the components, but for the actual PCB itself. Lead-free is much harder to desolder, and you will end up ruining some boards as you get your sea legs with it.

For me...if im prototyping or building something for the first time: I'm using leaded solder. Typically 63/37. Its just easier to deal with.

Pro tip? Use eutectic solders. That is: solders that melt and solidify as a whole. K100LD and 63/37 are eutectic. Makes it much more difficult to get a cold solder joint.

 

[sticky1138]

I've been using MG Chemicals 60/40 over the past few years and it's been good stuff. But I'm thinking of making the switch to lead-free so I don't end up on the funny farm. I do all my soldering in an unventilated home office/music room.

I just bought a small $18 roll (100g) of Weller lead-free for the name recognition. That doesn't seem like a good deal compared to what I normally buy, but not sure if I'm willing to chance it on "lead-free" wink wink no name Amazon brand solder yet. We'll see how it goes.

 

[finebyfine]

I prefer lead free because I’m a big idiot and compulsively touch with my beard and touch my face even when soldering. I wouldn’t last long with leaded.

 

[bean]

Currently I am using leaded w/ water soluble flux (Kester 331 63/37).

 

[Barry]

Leaded

 

[CR0SSBL4DE]

RoHS international laws sometimes make no sense, considering modern batteries generate lots of contamination and they are allowed. Even heard once that chinese battery toys started to include batteries just to make the contamination from the batteries anothers country problem.

From our world, Fender stopped exporting amps with the original photocells in the vibrato circuit, because a bit of cadmium in them. But solar panels use cadmium and are allowed.

I know I'm missing some points, but still...

 

[jessenator]

Leaded. 63/37, apparently. I've had this spool for ages and never checked, or haven't checked in a while.

 

[Feral Feline]

If anyone is unclear, don't eat either kind.

Just sayin'.

I was literally coming in here to say that while unleaded may be preferred nowadays — I prefer the taste of leaded.


I'm tasting 63/37... Need a filter and fan, but haven't been building much — THAT's about to change.


PS: Question for the people ordering from JLCPCB — whether THD or SMD: What's JLCPCB use when you order the board pre-popped?

 

[Nostradoomus]

I was literally coming in here to say that while unleaded may be preferred nowadays — I prefer the taste of leaded.


I'm tasting 63/37... Need a filter and fan, but haven't been building much — THAT's about to change.

 

[HamishR]

Its a bit...well...

Each has advantages. I was using K100LD lead free for a while. That's probably about as good as one can do in lead-free in my experience.

The higher melting point isn't so much of an issue for the solder or the components, but for the actual PCB itself. Lead-free is much harder to desolder, and you will end up ruining some boards as you get your sea legs with it.

For me...if im prototyping or building something for the first time: I'm using leaded solder. Typically 63/37. Its just easier to deal with.

Pro tip? Use eutectic solders. That is: solders that melt and solidify as a whole. K100LD and 63/37 are eutectic. Makes it much more difficult to get a cold solder joint.

I'd often wondered what ratio of lead and silver was the eutectic. I guess 60/40 is close. I didn't know you could get solder as a eutectic alloy.

And I haven't heard the term eutectic in about 40 years!

 

[dot matrix madness]

Lead free solder made repairs much more difficult, but SMD parts are worse.