I am at my wits end! When I first finished this build, the boost wasn’t working and the drive was, but the LEDs were still lit in bypass. I got the LEDs figured out by wiring the stomps manually. Then the drive side stopped working. At first it would still make sound, but really ‘fatty’ then it went to just snap crackle and pop. That’s where I’m at right now with it. Idk what else to do!!! I’ve reflowed all solder joints, ive checked all component values, I’ve replaced most electrolytics, replaced the voltage divider, replaced the 47R resistor at the 9v. I’m still only getting ~7.8v VCC and between 0.5v - 2v Vref. It goes up and down. I stupidly tried putting a wire from the 47R resistor to the + of the op amp, thinking maybe there was a problem in between there, and nothing!!! I’ve tried audio probing it, I’m not that great at it. I get signal on leg 6 of the op amp, and nothing on the rest. I tried putting in a new resistor coming off of leg 7, and nothing. This build is doing me in. ANY help would be appreciated. I have a couple of photos. Lemme know if ya need more! Thanks in advance!!!
Fordoble boost + drive only boost working, snap crackle and pop on drive side.
- Thread starter Drayve85
- Start date
spi
Well-known member
Robert's boards always tend to orient the electrolytic caps the same way. Yet this one is sideways in respect to all the others, so looks as if it may have the incorrect orientation?
In fact, it looks like you've got the electrolytic cap in the holes that were for the optional box cap.
Is it possible this leg is shorting on something?
In fact, it looks like you've got the electrolytic cap in the holes that were for the optional box cap.
Is it possible this leg is shorting on something?
Thanks for the reply!! I’ve given up on this board for right now, and just ended up making a vero board version of the Dane. I know the leads on that cap were not shorting out, and I made sure the orientation of that cap were correct. I had swapped that cap out, and in the process of taking the old cap out messed up the pad of one of the eyelets. That part has pads for polar and non-polar caps. That’s the reason it looks all wonky.
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