Kliche - No Bypass?

[Joben Magooch]

Hi all, hopefully a quick/easy troubleshoot here:

Wrapped up a Kliche (full, not mini) build a few days ago. Went to test and it's not bypassing properly. When engaged it seems to be working just as expected: LED comes on, all controls work as they ought to, and it sounds like a Klon. But once bypassed/disengaged...not passing any sound whatsoever.

I would assume it's something with the switch wiring, maybe just a faulty switch? That's my first thought, anyways. I'm at work right now but will try and get some pics taken and posted ASAP; in the meantime does anyone have any ideas as to what to first check?

 

[fig]

It's either the switch or a bad connection to the pcb.

 

[Joben Magooch]

I will start by double-checking the connections to the main/3pdt PCBs. Seems like an easy first-check.

I don't think I have any spare 3PDTs on hand (or any other footswitches at all, for that matter, haha). I know I've read in the past that if you're not careful and lay down too much solder on the switch PCB you might accidentally end up bridging some of the lugs or something.
As I understand it with a typical 3PDT it should have 1/4/7 and 2/5/8 connected in position 1 and 2/5/8 and 3/6/9 in position 2? So I thought to simply check with my meter for continuity to make sure that was as expected (and no extraneous connections or whatnot) but wasn't sure if having it already attached to the 3PDT PCB (and in turn the main PCB) would impact that sort of test; I thought that the Kliche is more or less using the 3PDT in the same way as a DPDT switch but didn't know if that would change anything. Probably overthinking that.

 

[fig]

Any progress?

 

[Joben Magooch]

Nothing too much at the moment. Crazy busy but managed to find a few minutes over lunch break to re-flow and double check the connections to/from the footswitch but haven't had a chance to test yet...Hopefully tonight if I'm lucky. If that's no good then I'll need to order some new 3PDTs (probably should anyways, always going to have a use for some...)

 

[readingaregood]

Never can have enough switches. You added the 3PDT daughterboard that came with the PCB, not a different one? I've had only one bad 3PDT and I've never managed to bridge lugs (yet), but that's just my semi-newbie experience.

 

[Joben Magooch]

Never can have enough switches. You added the 3PDT daughterboard that came with the PCB, not a different one? I've had only one bad 3PDT and I've never managed to bridge lugs (yet), but that's just my semi-newbie experience.

Yep, used the included PCB...

I am a bit heavy-handed thorough with my solder on the switch PCBs, so maybe there is some underneath the board causing an issue but I couldn't or measure anything that seemed glaringly off. Ultimately it's just a cheapo Tayda switch though so maybe I just got a dud.

 

[PJS]

If you measure that the correct lugs are connected in each position, and that there are no lugs connected that shouldn't be, then your switch is OK. What you said about connections in post 3 is not correct though. This is what to look for



The switch board may also connect some of the lugs from side to side, but if you measure everything as in this diagram then the switch is good.

 

[Joben Magooch]

Got some new switches in.

Silly/simple question - would wiring up the Kliche *without* the breakout board be the same as is shown in the build doc for the Kliche Mini?

S1 on the PCB to 3PDT lug 1, S2 to lug 2, S3 to lug 3 on the left side...and then on the right S4 to Lug 7, S5 to Lug 8, S6 to Lug 9?

 

[Joben Magooch]

Replaced the footswitch (both with and without the included daughterboard) and now it's the opposite: Bypasses fine, nothing when engaged.

I'm sure it's something obvious I'm overlooking but this one's just gonna be shelved for a bit, lol.