MOFETA Build Docs

[Empyreal]

So I'm pretty new to DIY pedal building and ordered the Mofeta as soon as it became available.
I've seen there's been some....discussion...around the board and the build but are there going to be any build docs forthcoming? I also noted there was a thread that listed the components but I wasn't sure if that was 100% finalised? If so, why no docs?

I'm not in a desperate rush to get this built as I ordered a few boards at once and will slowly make my way through the others, but am keen to get any needed parts in as few orders as possible.

Cheers

 

[manfesto]

Here’s the board

 

[Tiwar]

I’m keen on checking out the schematic on this one.

 

[Feral Feline]

Dinna fash lads n ladies...
Schematic, Docs, bonus help/material will come in due course.

Before joining the forum, I didn't understand the release of boards before all accompanying materials were ready...

Well, once I joined the forum I found:
- PedalPCB's a (busy) one-man show;
- there's a natural pace and rhythm to the releases — keeners want to jump on boards ASAP, they're the front-line on vetting the already-vetted-by-Mr-PedalPCB boards;
- it's always worth the wait;
- I wished I'd joined the forum sooner, ie well before my first purchase — there's a wealth of good people here with wisdom they're willing to share.


Ahhh I see the Build Doc has dropped, schematic will follow soon enough.

 

[StovenHoof]

Just saw the build doc has dropped, and I compared it to the board I had in front of me (snagged one pretty early on, just haven't gotten to it). I found some discrepancies between the screen print on the actual board and the listed spots in the document.
SPECIFICALLY (Doc v Board):
C8 680p v 220p
C11 2n2 v 220p
C20 470p v 100p

Everything else seems to check out, but can anyone speak to which values for those caps should be used? Was the screen print an earlier revision, or should we roll with the build doc?

 

[benny_profane]

Just saw the build doc has dropped, and I compared it to the board I had in front of me (snagged one pretty early on, just haven't gotten to it). I found some discrepancies between the screen print on the actual board and the listed spots in the document.
SPECIFICALLY (Doc v Board):
C8 680p v 220p
C11 2n2 v 220p
C20 470p v 100p

Everything else seems to check out, but can anyone speak to which values for those caps should be used? Was the screen print an earlier revision, or should we roll with the build doc?

Both are ‘right’. @PedalPCB traced two units. The early board values show the first trace; the document shows the second.

 

[StovenHoof]

Both are ‘right’. @PedalPCB traced two units. The early board values show the first trace; the document shows the second.

Right on. A little further digging on the forum revealed that long convo between the EAE dude and PedalPCB that revealed the change about 30 posts in. But it's also good to get a direct answer sometimes. Thanks!

 

[Empyreal]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

Schematic, Docs, bonus help/material will come in due course.

Before joining the forum, I didn't understand the release of boards before all accompanying materials were ready...

Well, once I joined the forum I found:
- PedalPCB's a (busy) one-man show;
- there's a natural pace and rhythm to the releases — keeners want to jump on boards ASAP, they're the front-line on vetting the already-vetted-by-Mr-PedalPCB boards;
- it's always worth the wait;
- I wished I'd joined the forum sooner, ie well before my first purchase — there's a wealth of good people here with wisdom they're willing to share.

I wasn't particularly worried about it, I just know that with my limited experience and skills with building I like to eliminate as many factors that could contribute to my failure as possible.
Fully appreciate the guy is doing an amazing job for a one-man team so hope my post didn't come across antsy or moany!

Both are ‘right’. @PedalPCB traced two units. The early board values show the first trace; the document shows the second.

I'm assuming the Build Docs will be for the most recent and, perhaps, 'more correct' version? Again, due to my niaivity I want to make sure I make as good a job of it as possible whilst removing as many limiting factors

 

[Feral Feline]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

... hope my post didn't come across antsy or moany!

Not at all, came across as a straight-up valid question.

 

[droneshotfpv]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I wasn't particularly worried about it, I just know that with my limited experience and skills with building I like to eliminate as many factors that could contribute to my failure as possible.
Fully appreciate the guy is doing an amazing job for a one-man team so hope my post didn't come across antsy or moany!


I'm assuming the Build Docs will be for the most recent and, perhaps, 'more correct' version? Again, due to my niaivity I want to make sure I make as good a job of it as possible whilst removing as many limiting factors

I can tell you to be SURE the 2n5457's you use (if that is what you use) are verified legit, because my Amazon purchased 2n5457's were either fakes that were stamped with the proper part name, or were duds SO FAR out of spec that they didn't matter. The result was I couldn't BIAS the 2n5457's correctly... They never went below 11v, and should, at least start, around 4.5v / 5v... While waiting on legit ones, I ordered the SMD variants from TAYDA along with the SMD solder boards to turn them into through hole variants, and they worked perfectly as they should.
I also used 2n5458's before getting the SMD versions, and they worked really well also in place of 2n5457's. Any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!