Muzzle switched socket

buhimoth

New member
Hi there, I'm new here and am working on my second pedal.

I bought a Muzzle kit from musikding and it came with a 9 lug switched socket for the key input and I'm trying to figure out which lugs I need to use. Here's a diagram of what each lug connects to that, being a noob, I couldn't quite wrap my head around.

I need to connect to the tip (4?) and switched tip (?)
 

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thanks for the reply, but I could only find info on a 5 lug socket in that thread
 
Ok. This is a complicated jack. Here is some useful reading: https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/a-deep-dive-into-audio-jack-switches-and-configurations
I know lug 4 is the tip, lug 8 is the ring and lug 9 is the sleeve. Now when the cable is inserted, this causes the tip (lug 4) to bend and touch Lug 2. I believe this is the switched tip. Hopefully, one of my more knowledgeable colleagues can confirm or deny this.
Awesome thanks. Yes it is complicated! Im
Wondering if I should just order some simpler sockets!
 
Awesome thanks. Yes it is complicated! Im
Wondering if I should just order some simpler sockets!
I think you can learn a lot from this input jack. Take a look at the article and give it a go. You can always get the less complicated jack if it doesn’t work. 👍🏻
 
I think that it is a little bit more complicated than the above.

The documentation calls for the use of tip and switched tip (and sleeve for ground is assumed - in this case I am thinking ground is via the physical connection between the jack and the case).

According to the Tayda datasheet, switched tip looks like a normally closed switch (ie, the switch is normally closed, but inserting a plug into the socket opens the connection (turns the switch off)).

From what I can see, there is nothing normally contacting the tip contact, so there is no normally closed switch there. You will need to create one. It looks to me as if lug 2 is normally in contact with lug 3. Lug 2 is then removed from lug 3 (switched off) by the movement of lug 4 when the plug is inserted.

I think if it was me wiring this up I would connect lug 4 to lug 2, and then use lug 2 as the tip connection and lug 3 as the tip switched connection. I would try it and see if it worked, and go back for another look if it didn't work. Don't forget when testing (which you will do outside the case) to connect a ground up to the sleeve temporarily as well.

Of course you will need to identify the lugs by number first as well. If they are no marked and there is no easy way to tell then I would use a multimeter on continuity and try and see which input parts connect to which lugs and count it from there.
 
I think that it is a little bit more complicated than the above.

The documentation calls for the use of tip and switched tip (and sleeve for ground is assumed - in this case I am thinking ground is via the physical connection between the jack and the case).

According to the Tayda datasheet, switched tip looks like a normally closed switch (ie, the switch is normally closed, but inserting a plug into the socket opens the connection (turns the switch off)).

From what I can see, there is nothing normally contacting the tip contact, so there is no normally closed switch there. You will need to create one. It looks to me as if lug 2 is normally in contact with lug 3. Lug 2 is then removed from lug 3 (switched off) by the movement of lug 4 when the plug is inserted.

I think if it was me wiring this up I would connect lug 4 to lug 2, and then use lug 2 as the tip connection and lug 3 as the tip switched connection. I would try it and see if it worked, and go back for another look if it didn't work. Don't forget when testing (which you will do outside the case) to connect a ground up to the sleeve temporarily as well.

Of course you will need to identify the lugs by number first as well. If they are no marked and there is no easy way to tell then I would use a multimeter on continuity and try and see which input parts connect to which lugs and count it from there.
Awesome! Thanks so much for your reply. Thankfully they are numbered on the socket itself, so should be straight forward to do!
 
I think that it is a little bit more complicated than the above.

The documentation calls for the use of tip and switched tip (and sleeve for ground is assumed - in this case I am thinking ground is via the physical connection between the jack and the case).

According to the Tayda datasheet, switched tip looks like a normally closed switch (ie, the switch is normally closed, but inserting a plug into the socket opens the connection (turns the switch off)).

From what I can see, there is nothing normally contacting the tip contact, so there is no normally closed switch there. You will need to create one. It looks to me as if lug 2 is normally in contact with lug 3. Lug 2 is then removed from lug 3 (switched off) by the movement of lug 4 when the plug is inserted.

I think if it was me wiring this up I would connect lug 4 to lug 2, and then use lug 2 as the tip connection and lug 3 as the tip switched connection. I would try it and see if it worked, and go back for another look if it didn't work. Don't forget when testing (which you will do outside the case) to connect a ground up to the sleeve temporarily as well.

Of course you will need to identify the lugs by number first as well. If they are no marked and there is no easy way to tell then I would use a multimeter on continuity and try and see which input parts connect to which lugs and count it from there.
I guess alternatively, I could just leave the switched tip disconnected if I’m only ever going to use the key input?
 
I don't think so (having not built one). The build docks say that if you are leaving out the key input entirely then you can connect the switched tip pad directly to the tip pad and leave out the socket. If you are using the key input at all then it seems as if you would need to wire it with both connections.
 
I don't think so (having not built one). The build docks say that if you are leaving out the key input entirely then you can connect the switched tip pad directly to the tip pad and leave out the socket. If you are using the key input at all then it seems as if you would need to wire it with both connections.
I just tried it and it worked. The light is reacting to the key input. But I have a huge volume drop when I turn on the pedal (not a new fault, so I'm moving in the right direction now)
 
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