I'd like to do this myself and maybe add a bit more gain... Thought about just upping the size if the drive pot, or perhaps adding a higher gain boost on a toggle...Change C5 to 220nf.
I'm trying to understand why you would reduce C5 from 2.2uF to 220nF.Change C5 to 220nf.
I bet switching the a250k drive pot to a500k would do the trick.
You might consider swapping the logarithmic 250k to a linear 250k so that the middle of the dial has more resistance.
So, I know my way around, but still sort of a noon when it comes to being familiar enough with a circuit to understand what affects another... When it comes to, say, changing pot values on an already-built pedal, I've often wondered if it were possible to just solder *or alligator clip* a different resistor to the existing pot and essentially up the resistance... A good way to experiment instead of desoldering and risking lifting a padI bet switching the a250k drive pot to a500k would do the trick. If you turn it way up it may get a little out of control. I have yet to mess with an ODR. You might consider swapping the logarithmic 250k to a linear 250k so that the middle of the dial has more resistance. That might make it trickier to dial in lower drive sounds though.
I will sorta add to my initial comment on the gain (or anything really). I guess I sorta get "Bluesbreaker syndrome", where some pedals feel like they have to absolutely be cranked, with drive, tone, volume, etc... To me, it leaves me feeling like 9/10th's of the control becomes effectively "useless"... It is more attractive (again, my opinion) to have less of the "undesirable" settings on the table...I'm trying to understand why you would reduce C5 from 2.2uF to 220nF.
There are diminishing returns by increasing the GAIN pot to 500K. It's only a 6dB (theoretical) increase in gain. It will actually be less because the diode leakage comes into play. Also, we might need to reduce C3.
If you're really dead-set on increasing the gain, you will have an easier time of it by reducing the impedances of C4, C5, R7, R8 & the BASS pot.
You might need a different opamp because the 4558 runs out of bandwidth when the gain exceeds 500x (54dB) or thereabouts.
In any case, this sort of tinkering is best done on a breadboard.
That might be the right move for someone who likes their sweet spot to be near noon and never deviates much in either direction. I know a guy on these forums who does just that.
Me, I want the range to be right so I can set the knob low enough and high enough to suit my purposes and I really don't care if my favorite setting ends up at 9:00 or 3:00.
Another solution is to put a booster in front of the ODR-1.
Or maybe you need a different pedal.I will sorta add to my initial comment on the gain (or anything really). I guess I sorta get "Bluesbreaker syndrome", where some pedals feel like they have to absolutely be cranked, with drive, tone, volume, etc... To me, it leaves me feeling like 9/10th's of the control becomes effectively "useless"... It is more attractive (again, my opinion) to have less of the "undesirable" settings on the table...
I'd only really do this to a pedal build I didn't care for or one that had promise with some traits I KNOW would turn it from just "ok" to great (for my purposes)... or maybe just more versatile.
In some cases, yes, for sure.Or maybe you need a different pedal.
You were correct. I swapped to a 500k, and the pedal oscillates at the highest settings... like a modulation effect at a rapid rateI bet switching the a250k drive pot to a500k would do the trick. If you turn it way up it may get a little out of control. I have yet to mess with an ODR. You might consider swapping the logarithmic 250k to a linear 250k so that the middle of the dial has more resistance. That might make it trickier to dial in lower drive sounds though.
I saw another forum member have the same issue (also noted when the gain was turned up).Shouldn't do that.
I do have it on a "audition" board instead of in a case... I didn't notice the oscillating when I had the 250k drive pot installed, BUT, I was running a hammer drill through concrete and brick all day when I first tested it... I'll give it another glance just to be sure I didn't miss anything and then post photos.This circuit should not oscillate. If it does, then there is a problem with stray coupling either thru the proximity of traces, off-board wiring, power or grounding.
Wanna post photos of your build?