Power jack quick disconnect options

[Giorfida]

I currently use the type of connector below. Unfortunately, you can’t remove it without unsoldering, which often destroys the plug.
As I have most of my pedals unlabeled, waiting to get a few more done to maximize use of the sheets. As such I’m likely going to have to remove everything to apply decals/clearcoat.

That said, has anyone used spade connectors to attach to the jack, or something like a micro wago connector (if it exists)?

 

[Zanshin]

I’d suggest getting the auditorium. It’s one of those things you’ll think “how did I live without this?” Or “why did I wait so long”.

Auditorium Test Platform - PedalPCB.com

Pedal testing platform

www.pedalpcb.com

 

[chris.knudson]

I haven't used spade connectors, although I suppose you could. However, I have used these XH connectors.

 

[Giorfida]

I’d suggest getting the auditorium. It’s one of those things you’ll think “how did I live without this?” Or “why did I wait so long”.

Auditorium Test Platform - PedalPCB.com

Pedal testing platform

www.pedalpcb.com

cool product but won’t help with what I want. I want to be able to use the pedals for a few weeks/months before labeling. In other words, they will be in cases for a while before I get around to labeling

 

[manfesto]

Another win for team Outie DC Jack

 

[Giorfida]

Another win for team Outie DC Jack

Yes and no. I do prefer the fact the innie takes up less real estate

 

[manfesto]

Yes and no. I do prefer the fact the innie takes up less real estate

If you add an extra nut on the inside, an Outie doesn’t end up sticking out nearly as far, about on-par with the small Lumbergs. Worth a shot!

 

[Barry]

If you add an extra nut on the inside, an Outie doesn’t end up sticking out nearly as far, about on-par with the small Lumbergs. Worth a shot!View attachment 68868

That's what I use white washers for!

 

[Giorfida]

If you add an extra nut on the inside, an Outie doesn’t end up sticking out nearly as far, about on-par with the small Lumbergs. Worth a shot!View attachment 68868

Not a bad thought. May do this when I burn through the rest of my innies.
Although now it means I will have to drill every enclosure (at least one hole) vs using predrilled out of the box

 

[owlexifry]

such a big hole for the innie though.
and then you can't use these (well, not without reaming it)

Top Jack Faceplate - PedalPCB.com

Cosmetic Faceplate

www.pedalpcb.com

you could try, instead of threading the power leads through the solder tags of the jack, just tack it on with a light amount of solder if you plan to pull it later on.

 

[Harry Klippton]

I unsolder those thinline lumbegs all the time

 

[manfesto]

Although now it means I will have to drill every enclosure (at least one hole) vs using predrilled out of the box

Indeed, whenever I use a pre-drilled Tayda, minimum I have to ream out the LED hole to 6mm for the bezels I use and 1/2” for the DC Jack. Takes maybe 30 seconds and lets me use the parts I prefer though

 

[Giorfida]

such a big hole for the innie though.
and then you can't use these (well, not without reaming it)

Top Jack Faceplate - PedalPCB.com

Cosmetic Faceplate

www.pedalpcb.com

you could try, instead of threading the power leads through the solder tags of the jack, just tack it on with a light amount of solder if you plan to pull it later on.

That isn’t a bad idea. So simple that I’m kicking myself for not thinking of it!!

Indeed, whenever I use a pre-drilled Tayda, minimum I have to ream out the LED hole to 6mm for the bezels I use and 1/2” for the DC Jack. Takes maybe 30 seconds and lets me use the parts I prefer though

If I get predrilled, I don’t use a bezel. I just jam in the 5mm LED and call it a day. If that’s near the switch I’ll throw some hot snot on it to hold it in.

 

[KR Sound]

I unsolder those thinline lumbegs all the time

Ya, just takes a second of heat to disconnect it.

 

[jwin615]

I use XH when the board is layed out to have +- next to each other(non-ppcb)
Otherwise I use one of these , 4 pole variety.
I actually use 2, one at each end of the board. Run female Dupont to banana jacks to my test box jig. There's banana to 1/4 jacks there.
You could interface other things as well like the various test bends, audition thingy, etc. this was just parts I had. You do have to shave down the clamps a little to fit between two pots(wear eye and lung protection, fiberglass is bad)
As it is. I can snap a board in in 10nsecond to test. No soldering of wires or footswitches.
Its good to have a 6 pole version as well btw.

 

[jwin615]

No flux shaming. It has to work before it gets cleaned.

 

[bean]

You can get 2 point 2.54mm connectors cheap off AliExpress. I'll find the link for the ones I bought. They work perfectly.

 

[chris.knudson]

I unsolder those thinline lumbegs all the time

Yup. It's part of the fun of building pedals...

 

[chris.knudson]

You can get 2 point 2.54mm connectors cheap off AliExpress. I'll find the link for the ones I bought. They work perfectly.

Actually have them in my cart... https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256....0.0.44f538daZMcrab&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

And while you're at it, you can pick up one of these...

 

[Big Monk]

View attachment 68880
No flux shaming. It has to work before it gets cleaned.

Once you start having to make 10-20 of a pedal at a time, you DON’T GIVE A FUCK about flux underneath anymore.

I still dry scrape anything up top after mounting pots, LEDs or switches but the bottom can fuck right off.