PPCB 3 Channel Mixer and Splitter.

Hal Harvey

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
I finished these 4 up yesterday. I wish I could say I was making progress through my build queue but I keep adding more 😭.

These face plates felt like cheating and I’m happy I invested in the rotabroach/rotacut set. It’s as accurate as I am with the auto punch.

I made two sets, one for my bass board (I’m excited to see if they can knock off the Tyler Deluxe), and another set for my guitar board.

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Action shot from testing on my in flux board:
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I am about to order pre-drilled Tayda enclosures for these. I was wondering if you thought the Lumberg power plugs were necessary or if the regular size ones would do? Also, I noticed that the 5mm LEDs do not fit through the faceplate holes, was it tricky to mount them so that they get through?

Very clean build btw, I like what you did with the grounds for the jacks, I may steal that idea :)
 
I am about to order pre-drilled Tayda enclosures for these. I was wondering if you thought the Lumberg power plugs were necessary or if the regular size ones would do? Also, I noticed that the 5mm LEDs do not fit through the faceplate holes, was it tricky to mount them so that they get through?

Very clean build btw, I like what you did with the grounds for the jacks, I may steal that idea :)

The power plugs are the cheap Tayda copies. You should grab a few with your order. I’m not sure about the outtie and innies, but you’d likely be fine with those too.

For the LEDs, solder those close to last. I adjusted the height so the LED rests against the back of the face plate and the tip peeks through.

Bus wire is the love of my life!
 
I have one more question: why does this need stereo jacks? And how should they be wired? I only see signal and ground pads on the PCB?
 
I have one more question: why does this need stereo jacks? And how should they be wired? I only see signal and ground pads on the PCB?

Neither the Splitter nor Mixer need stereo jacks, just mono.

Some people buy jacks in bulk for economies of scale.
You can always use a stereo jack as mono, but not the other way 'round.


Oh, and the jacks in Hal's builds here look to be mono.
 
Neither the Splitter nor Mixer need stereo jacks, just mono.

Some people buy jacks in bulk for economies of scale.
You can always use a stereo jack as mono, but not the other way 'round.


Oh, and the jacks in Hal's builds here look to be mono.
That’s what I usually do, buy the stereo jacks and if I just need mono, I pull the switched tip and sleeve lugs out of the Jack shell. Super easy.
 
Gotcha. The BOM specifies the Tayda stereo jacks so I was confused by that...

I just linked to the ones I use and know will physically fit the template, you can certainly use the mono version.

Like @Paradox916, I just use the stereo version for everything. I don't even bother pulling the unused lugs out, the jack feels a little looser to me without the ring contact.
 
That’s what I usually do, buy the stereo jacks and if I just need mono, I pull the switched tip and sleeve lugs out of the Jack shell. Super easy.

I never thought to pull anything from the stereo-jacks, I've just left them in like Robert — even though my frugality makes me cringe at it: for example using 3PDT when all you need is a 2PDT. I'm OCD to a degree, Obsessively Cash-conscious Dumb-ass.

Good idea top pull them if there's any chance on shorting something.

Thanks for that!
 
I don't even bother pulling the unused lugs out, the jack feels a little looser to me without the ring contact.
you ain’t lying, there is a difference for sure. But they seem to feel the same as the mono jacks of that specific type, and definitely not like the Lumberg’s that feel like they want to fight you for the plug like me trying to take the TV remote from my kid.
 
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